SF Tao of Pao

       Anyone who has ever been to the Inner Richmond will undoubtedly notice one thing. There are a lot of Asians out there. And where there are many Asians, there also generally follows a good selection of Asian restaurants.  I’m half Asian – a mutt, hybrid, or “hapa haoli” as I was called when I lived in Hawaii.  And any real Asian knows one that there is one thing we all identify with: enjoying good food.  Food is a huge part of our culture. That movie “Eat, Drink, Man, Woman?” Oscar winner for foreign film of the year in the early nineties? Yeah, pretty much my life.  Relationships and friendships are forged around food. When I go on vacation with my family, half the plans center about where we are going to eat? When is the next meal? While other families took camping trips and learned how to fish?  I learned how you debone a fish, crack Dungeness crab with my teeth and cook pig’s feet.  Classmates would bring peanut butter and jelly sandwiches to school. Me? My dad would usually whip up some tofu, pickled Asian radish stir fry and maybe even throw in a side of sautéed pig ears. You think I am joking, but that was life in the Pao household.        Saying that, you can imagine how seriously I take my Asian cuisine. Don’t give me any of that “Asian fusion” crap or Americanized Chinese food.  Orange chicken? Sweet and sour pork?  I’d rather eat quiche (FYI – I hate quiche. Only food I don’t like. Bad experience at age 5 that I don’t want to talk about).  I get very excited when I’m introduced to a new Asian restaurant that manages to distinguish itself with simple, well-executed food that pulls from the influences of its roots.  Burma SuperStar, a mainstay in the Inner Richmond, does just that.

Scene

            This is not your Yank Sing or Ana Mandara Asian restaurant with fancy tablecloths and ornate décor.  Nope. At Burma SuperStar it’s all about the food.  Simple wooden tables, minimalist Burmese décor and dozens of reviews and awards from the city of San Francisco fill the small, loud room with hungry patrons.  An old maroon valance with a gold lettered sign does not differentiate it from the dozen of other surrounding Asian restaurants on Clement Ave.  Then why is this place so popular? Why, after three years living in the city, when so many restaurants are closing or facing the problem of empty tables, can I always expect to wait 30 minutes to an hour and not feel cheated at the end of the meal?  The answer is simple: creative, full-flavored food.  There is not a thing on the Burma SuperStar menu that does not seem inventive and enticing to try. 

Food and Inspiration

            Where does this innovative menu come from?  What is its inspiration? Geographically, Burma (also known as Myanmar) is bordered by China, Laos, Thailand, India and Bangladesh.  Each of these countries has very diverse cuisine, but the common thread is an emphasis on strong flavors that have influenced the menu at Burma SuperStar.  On a recent Thursday I went there with my old college roommate, Christina.  Christina and I have fairly different tastes. She does not eat any red meat; I love all kinds of meat, especially anything that comes from a cow or pig. She likes more mild flavors; I will always opt for spice, once eating a pack of 35 jalapenos in four days.  How was this going to work going at a restaurant like Burma SuperStar?  I can say that there was not a moment of sacrifice. The multiple options for vegetarians, carnivores, foodies and the timid eater are plentiful.      

      We started our meal with the Tea Leaf salad, featured on the Food Network. It has 11 ingredients including imported Burmese fermented tea leaves, a variety of nuts, fried garlic chips (my new favorite ingredient), dried shrimp and lime.   The server comes to your table, highlights all the ingredients, and then mixes it for you.  He really treats each course like a magical act, and I was waiting to see just what would be pulled out of his hat.  The first bite filled my mouth with a refreshing, spicy, nutty flavor.  I loved the addition of green chilies for that extra kick and was able to wash down the spice with a 15 oz pitcher of red wine sangria, with fresh Asian pears and oranges.  While perusing the menu, my eyes scanned between Burmese Samosas, Pea shoots (a popular Chinese vegetable dish) and Garlic Chili Shrimp.  Yet, after spotting the bright colors of the Spicy Chicken with Fresh Basil at a nearby table, I was sold.  The dish was served over a large banana leaf and was sautéed and stir-fried with fragrant lemon grass, crunchy sweet peas, jalapenos, dried red chilies and of course, basil.  Many times I skip ordering chicken while out at a restaurant because it ends up tasting like a flavorless rubber band.  Not this dish. The chicken was moist, with a slight breading, and each bite popped with a burst of flavor and the unguent smells tickled and enticed my nose, beckoning me to eat the entire dish. 

Our other main dish was Nan Gyi Dok, a Burmese rice noodle dish that is served with hard-boiled eggs, yellow peas, and fried onions, all in a bed of mild coconut curry sauce.  For curry lovers, it has a smooth, but not overpowering coconut flavor that pairs nicely with the side of coconut rice.  I love pretty much any kind of noodle dish; yet, I must say I think the noodles were slightly overcooked.  Does this mean I’m going to discount Burma Superstar? No. I’ve had the Garlic Noodles with duck in a past visit and LOVED them.  If you are a noodle fan, I recommend skipping the curry noodles and opting for the Garlic Noodle option, which is a flour-based noodle dish that you can order with bbq pork, tofu or duck, and is served with the genius addition of fried garlic, broccoli and scallions.  Just keep in mind that there is a bit more of a kick to this dish – as noted with the chili icon for all spicier plates on the menu. 

            After devouring our three courses, our bellies were full, and hearts felt content.  We opted to skip dessert (I may be generalizing but I’ve often found that Asian restaurants do not have the best selection of outstanding desserts). The bill was reasonable, about $30 each all in for our food and the pitcher of refreshing sangria. 

Final Take: Pao Wow?

So what is the final verdict?  Burma SuperStar will appeal to dedicated foodies and your regular Joe who enjoys a tasty bite out.  It can be counted on to provide a meal that will excite your tongue, and also fire your senses with diverse spices and unique flavor combinations.  The ambiance is casual, focused on the food, not the frills. Expect to wait 30 to 45 minutes on any given day at high traffic times. But here’s a tip: If you call, you can put your name on the list and then arrive a little before your seating time. While you’re waiting you can grab a coffee across the street or a drink down the block at the Rockit Room.  Believe me. It’s worth the wait. Your stomach will thank you. I say Pao Wow on this one.

http://www.burmasuperstar.com/