SF Tao of Pao

Latest post from my SF Burger Examiner page on 4505 Meats burger at the SF Farmers Market! I’ve also copied it here in case clicking links is not your thing.

There is almost nothing more San Francisco hitting up the Ferry Building Farmers Market on a Saturday morning. Fruit vendors tempt you with slices of locally-grown citrus, fresh lilacs beckon would-be romantic boyfriends, coffee zealots wait in long lines for Blue Bottle creations, and tourists gawk at the cornucopia of satisfying treats. With an abundance of amusements to captivate your attention for a solid couple hours, the question is not will I eat, but rather what to eat?

A couple Saturdays ago the sky opened and sunshine shone down on a heavenly spot that serves up one of the juiciest grilled burgers I’ve had to date. 4505 Meats – known for making a gourmet version of fried pork skins lovingly called “chicharrones” – has taken outdoor grilling to a new level of expertise. Twitter fans and food lovers alike may recognize the name of 4505 Meats front man – Ryan Farr. Aside from serving up handmade hot dogs, sausages and of course, burgers, he also shares his skills with regular Josephines at his popular butchery classes.

Pig paraphernalia adorns the outdoor day time kitchen for 4505 Meats – echoing the team’s love for the America’s “other white meat.” Yet that Saturday was all about pork’s formidable challenger: beef. The Magruder Ranch 14 day-old aged beef burger was the day’s main event; a multi-layered tribute to flavor and decadence. It’s clear from the first bite that a lot of time, thought, and love went into this version of America’s favorite sandwich.

The bun is no simple bun; instead Farr and his team feature a buttery, sesame seed parmesan-laced Kaiser roll that fills your mouth with sweetness in the first bite. I have to say that while I can appreciate the evident care behind this offering, the roll’s sweetness overpowered the taste of the meat, and almost competed with it. The meat is the star of the burger show and should never play understudy to another ingredient, especially when high quality beef is available.

Melted Mezzo Seco cheese (similar to Jack cheese) adds a dimension of sharpness that complements the beef and helps to neutralize some of the bun’s sweetness. A fresh leaf of lettuce and bit of red onion act as crisp garnishes, and with tomatoes back in season, expect to find a thickly cut slice on your patty. A Thousand-Island style sauce is generously applied, which adds to the already juicy nature of a true medium-rare burger. Pour on the signature “Money Sauce” and you may even do a Cuba Gooding Jr. “show me the money” dance in celebration. Just don’t expect to find out the secret ingredients – the 4505 Meats crew has the recipe under tight lock and key.

Cleanliness is next to godliness…except when you are eating one of these burgers. Upon first bite you can guarantee the meaty juices will be dripping down the side of your hand…finger-licking is encouraged. Although the burger may look small at first, do not fret, it is the perfect size for a stealthy grip and the only thing you should worry about is where to find a stash of heavy-duty napkins to wipe up the juices. Per usual, once I pick up a burger, I do not put it down until complete annihilation and the 4505 Meats burger suffered the same feat of rapid consumption. My parents always called me a determined and disciplined competitor – and yes, eating burgers is a competitive sport.

The $7 expenditure for a 4505 Meats burger is a steal at the Farmers Market – where you could easily spend $5 on a latte or $6 on a bag of stinging nettles – ouch!  The only question is whether you get one or two of these slider-esque offerings. A word to the wise – it’s a slippery slope to burger coma – one which claims a happy set of victims each Saturday at the Ferry Building.

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