Pasted below is my review on El Huipil in Redwood City for SanJose.com, part of online periodical Metro News.  I have also included a link to the original article HERE.

Deep in the industrial part of Redwood City amid a collection of warehouses sits El Huipil, the new Mexican restaurant infused with Mayan roots for a touch of authenticity.

El Huipil’s neighborhood is not known for its aesthetics, and as you pass the rather unattractive, boxlike factory buildings and dilapidated corner shops, you might think you have taken a wrong turn. Maintain course and discover a clean, sit-down Mexican restaurant that wavers somewhere between hole-in-the wall taqueria and a more upscale spot with quality cuisine.

Lunch hour is the busiest, with nearly every table taken by midday. A family-owned establishment, El Huipil has one brother manning the counter and the other in the kitchen preparing orders on colorfully decorated clay plates. The two-man show means that during rush hour, there may be a wait for orders to arrive. Patience will be rewarded with a spray of bright ingredients and generously portioned fare.

“El huipil” refers to a traditional Mayan tunic, ornately decorated with embroidery that speaks to the cultural origins of the wearer. El Huipil restaurant has a similar cultural throwback; each bite of food transports diners back to memories of warm Mexican beaches, Mayan ruins and food centered on simple, made-from-scratch ingredients.

The chalkboard menu showcases soft and crispy tacos with a choice of meats or fish; sopes with just the right amount of red smoky sauce; a range of pleasing tortas on soft Dutch crunch rolls; and daily specials, such as mole poblano and seafood huarache, Mexico’s version of a pizza.

Thanks to my Southern California roots, I immediately focused my taste buds on the plentiful array of taco options. Meat choices range from carne asada, al pastor, chorizo, pollo, milanesa and fish. After a few moments of indecision, I decided to try an assortment of different items, including two orders of crispy tacos (two come per order, and we selected pollo, al pastor, fish and carne asada).

While waiting for our tacos to arrive, I happily demolished basket after basket of made-in-house tortilla chips with a spicy, balanced salsa. These are not run-of-the-mill tortilla chips, but thicker, warm chips that are lightly dusted with ancho chile, cayenne pepper and chipotle pepper spices. Additional baskets are a $1, but the nominal fee is well worth it.

El Huipil tacos win over any table with the dual set of handmade tortillas. The combination of crispy inner tortilla surrounded by a softer tortilla provides a diverse set of textures with every bite. The parchment paper wrapping helps seal in the meat drippings and a load of toppings like fresh guacamole and heaps of sour cream.

The meat deserves its special mention: quality cuts cooked with a bit of TLC for a peppery blend of flavor and depth. The al pastor taco is adorned with chopped, freshly grilled pineapple, which adds a bit of sweetness to the heartily portioned taco. The fish taco is among the best I have sampled, with soft, tender meat encased in a thin, chipotle chile breading.

The huarache, easily the best item I sampled on the El Huipil menu, was large enough to share between two people. Management does not do this dish justice with its simple description. A delicate sheet of handmade corn dough is topped with a layer of refried beans that has just the right amount of lard. Smoky Monterey jack cheese melts on top of the beans, melding the flavors together. A savory red sauce adds subtle hints of heat to the dish and large head-on prawns, generous portions of chipotle breaded fish, and mussels blanket the plate. A garnish of chopped red onions, tomatoes and guacamole adds the final bit of acidity and color to the plate.

In terms of price, El Huipil is not as expensive as a gringo, sit-down spot nor is it as cheap as a typical $2 taqueria. Our order of three large tacos, a sope, huarache, chips and salsa, and beverages rounded up to just around $30. Frankly, I welcome the slightly higher cost if it means that each bite of food is a tribute to home-style, quality Mexican food. Remember to bring cash or a checkbook as El Huipil does not accept credit cards and has no ATM on site (one is a couple blocks away if the need arises).

El Huipil is currently trying to promote its breakfast menu, which boasts favorites like huevos rancheros, chilaquiles and even a bit of birria (traditional lamb stew). The current special gives customers 50 percent off breakfast if they purchase an espresso or other coffee drink.

I have pasted my latest SF Station YUM blog article on new Marina taco spot, Tacko, from Nick Fasanella of Underdogs and formerly Nick’s Crispy Tacos.  To view the original article please click this LINK.

Last Friday I gave my friend Nick Fasanella (yes, “that Nick” formerly of Nick’s Crispy Tacos and current owner of Underdogs in the Inner Richmond) a call to chat about his upcoming restaurant launch, Tacko, in the Marina. It was a sunny day in San Francisco and Nick was taking advantage of the good weather to captain his boat up to Petaluma.

There are two things you need to know about Nick: 1) Boating is life 2) Food and cooking rank a close second. Nick lives on a boat in Sausalito, which explains his permanent sun-kissed skin and penchant for boating belts and collared shirts, but his romance with water dates back to childhood.  Nick grew up in Connecticut and often could be found sailing the waters of Nantucket or learning about whole foods from his farmer grandfather. After a three-day college stint, Nick left and headed to Ft. Lauderdale to start a boat-detailing business. When business slowed, Nick would drop anchor in favor of an apron and work in restaurants.

After some parental prodding to go back to school, the only logical choice was culinary school. Nick enrolled in the esteemed Culinary Institute of America in Napa and earned a one-year internship at The Inn at Little Washington, which received the James Beard Award in the same year. Word got out about the sailor-turned-chef and upon graduation Nick was recruited to work as a private yacht chef. Nick traveled the world and expanded his culinary repertoire, made even easier by the bounty of ingredients at his fingertips. Yet in 1999, after 6 years of working as a private chef, Nick felt the itch to move again and rode cross-country on his motorcycle from Miami to California.

Upon arrival in California, Nick immediately noticed local fascination with a little wonder known as a taqueria.  Being from New England, this was unchartered territory. Every person Nick met seemed to have a favorite set of taquerias up an down the coast. Interest turned into passion and borderline obsession. Nick loved to ask, “What’s your favorite taqueria and where is it?” Many of these questions turned into midweek trips to Modesto or Yosemite in search of the “perfect taco.”

Flash forward several years and Nick has an impressive resume of successful taco shop creations. His first, Nick’s Crispy on Polk, still has lines out the door for the double layer soft and hard shell tortilla tacos with loads of meat, pico de gallo, cheese and guacamole.  Although no longer part of Nick’s Crispy, he opened The Taco Shop at Underdogs in the Inner Richmond, serving the same favorite tacos Nick’s Way in a lively sports bar environment.

It seems only natural that the time has come for Nick to merge his loves for the ocean and the kitchen and open Tacko, a Nantucket-inspired taqueria poised to hit the Marina in a couple weeks. Nick and his business partner Doug Marschke capitalized on the misfortune of short-timer Kasa Indian Eatery, taking over the lease and infrastructure and giving the dark space a vibrant facelift. White wooden panel walls, teak and holly wood countertops, nautical light fixtures, and a compass rose mural infuse the space with thoughts of the seaside. The name Tacko is inspired by “ACK” the airport code for Nantucket and the logo is a red and blue “burgee,” or yacht club flag. Nick says his spot is kind of like “yacht club taco” and invites guests to come into the clean, well-lit spot for “really good, fast, healthy food that is true to the flavors in a comfortable environment.” Try and grab a seat by the front windows, which accordion out to reveal patio seating perfect for a warm Indian summer day in SF.

The Tacko menu will for the most part mirror Underdogs. As a Cow Hollow resident, I am counting down the days until I can sink my teeth into a juicy tomato mole chicken, carne asada, crispy carnitas or Baja fish taco served Nick’s Way. Tacko will not have any nachos or wings on the menu, but it will be offering a lobster roll a la Nantucket, served on a toasted torpedo roll with heaps of buttered Maine lobster. Beer, wine, and agave wine margaritas form the drink menu and rumor has it the margaritas will be available by the bucket or pail. Tacko is set to open the week after Bay to Breakers with hours 11AM to 10PM, 7 days a week. Perfect timing if you ask me to nurse that hangover with a hefty taco or lobster roll.

Tacko

$

Fillmore St, cross Filbert

Pasted below is my review of Atelier Crenn – the new ground-breaking French restaurant from acclaimed chef, Dominique Crenn.  Crenn really is an artist with a canvas, only instead of a canvas she delicately adds color to a plate. For the original article on SF Station’s YUM blog click this LINK.

Walking down Fillmore St, you could easily miss the nondescript space occupied by newcomer Atelier Crenn, from Michelin star chef Dominique Crenn. Natural-colored curtains keep the dining area hidden, providing patrons a bit of privacy and tempting outsiders with subtle mystery. Enter and you immediately notice the minimialist décor. While some patrons criticize the space for being stark and cold, I find the combination of a bamboo wood ceiling, low, cream-colored banquettes, and antique light bulbs to be soft and tastefully decorated.

Nature and Imagination are on the menu

Everything about Atelier Crenn echoes a single theme of embracing one’s natural state and then building upon it. From the subtle classic décor, to the artwork painted by Dominique and her father, to the inventive cuisine; all elements are nature in a new derivation. Atelier Crenn challenges you to forget living by the rules and instead embrace risk-taking. One piece of advice: prepare to be astonished and have a meal that will overpower all your senses.

The excitement of the Atelier Crenn team is infectious. Bauer may not get it, and frankly, so be it. Let him stay entrenched in tradition, hitting the spots that follow the trend and dance to the all-too familiar beats. I am ready for a bit of lambada in a crowd full of waltzes, and Crenn is just the artist to lead.

Cuisine a la Crenn

When it comes to the menu at Atelier Crenn, you have two options: a la carte or the Chef’s Tasting menu. Atelier Crenn is a bit of a wallet pincher so save up for the latter. An amuse bouche spoon duo emerges on a charcoal slab of rock to kick off the meal. The first spoon holds frozen pea soup pearls and the second has foie gras pellets, apple cider gelee, and a hint of rose petal essence. If dippin dots ever went fine dining, this would be the result.

The coldness of the pea soup awakens your senses and the foie and rose combination washes over your tongue in a wave of smooth sweetness. Accompanying the spoonfuls is a peppery and herb-laden squab liver crostini that is perched on a branch like a bird would be in a tree. The next course is a sphere of coconut butter with a touch of crenels de cassis that provides a bright cranberry note. Pop the sphere into your mouth and experience an explosion of chilled apple cider.

A red rock bin appears at your table and diners are encouraged to “forage” for oysters. The oyster is seared and smoky. Sturgeon droplets recreate the image of an oyster with pearls, only these are ones you can eat.

For a dose of nostalgia, move on to the next dish. Large prawns cooked sous vide style sit on a rice gelee, garnished with a light trace of seaweed. I lean over my dish to take in the full experience and the scent of the sea teleports me back to childhood. I imagine my teenage frame crawling over jagged rocks in Palos Verdes tide pools, hunting for sand crabs as the ocean waves crash behind me.

After a period out at sea, Crenn welcomes diners back to the mainland with her Le Jardin d’Hiver — a splash of ingredients playfully coloring your plate. Parsnip puree, carrots, beets, and toasted rye and hazelnuts splay across the surface, with sheep’s milk yogurt disguised as a wintry snowfall.

One of the most decadent dishes of the evening is a large portion of thinly sliced foie gras decorated with pickled morels, kumquat chips and crumbled French spiced bread. The creation honors the forest and its textured offerings of wood and dirt, but the taste is anything but bland.

In another dish, Atelier Crenn proves that celery can be exciting again. Crenn masters the art of the egg, placing a slow-cooked yolk delicately on top of a dollop of celery root puree. The yolk is near solid but with a quick piercing of your fork it bursts, forming a puddle of yellow. Puffed rice, powdered rye and bits of celery all dance across the canvas.

Of the two proteins that evening, my favorite is the medium rare lamb with fresh peas and carrots. The dish announces spring’s arrival.  Instead of thinly slicing the lamb, Crenn serves a short, thick cut, almost like a meat log, positioned vertically. A baby julienned carrot balances adjacently and piles of fresh and frozen peas and carrot puree flank the meat.

Dessert is front and center

Many times desserts sabotage a great meal; an afterthought leaving diners disappointed. At Atelier Crenn, this could be no further from the truth. Lauded pastry chef Juan Contreras proves that you can end a meal with a roaring crescendo. For the first dish, Contreras brings out a black box of fresh Douglas fir pine needles and dry ice, the smoke of which whispers over the edge. The image reminds me of hikes in cool, misty mountains. Contreras encourages you to first breathe in the aromatherapy before tasting the iced pine essence and macerated pine ice cream. It is a full body experience that wakes you up for the onslaught of creative desserts coming your way.

For the next dessert, Contreras presents a log that he has sanded down himself and then topped with different elements. Olive brittle pieces resembling rock candy scatter across the log for a bit of crunchy texture. Sitting on top of the brittle is Contreras’ rendition of a peace offering. He recreates an olive on a branch, only instead of an acidic olive Contreras forms olive ice cream into the shape of an olive.  The flavor is mildly sweet and one that I will gladly surrender to any time.

Just when you think you have reached your sweet tooth limit, two more desserts hurdle your way.  One is an inventive take on carrot cake where the cake is formed into the literal shape of a carrot and then paired with pea ice cream. The second dessert is a sampling of dessert miniatures surrounding a bonsai tree. Marshmallow, salted caramel, lychee gelee and chocolate ganache are just a few in the assortment.

An evening at Atelier Crenn is the marriage of farm, nature, and fine dining. It is a poetic experience of passion, ingenuity, and freedom from boundaries; a haven where creativity abounds, as well as really good food.

Atelier Crenn
Marina District
$$$

Photo Credits: The Dapper Diner

Pasted below is my latest article on Namu and Chef Dennis Lee from SF Station’s Yum blog.  Yum blog focuses on restaurant reviews, food events and other newsworthy items to whet your appetite.  You can also click this LINK to access the actual article on the SF Station YUM page.

Most San Francisco locals have heard about Namu, the small, hip Asian-fusion restaurant opened by the Lee brothers, who have inspired a fan club with their Korean bulgogi seaweed tacos — only Chef Dennis Lee does not stop with tacos.

His dashi broth shitake mushroom dumplings, tempura shrimp with handmade ramen (arrive early and order quickly as there are only about 6 bowls a night), and Namu fried chicken deserve their own special attention. Yet there are also a couple other surprises the Lee brothers have in store for you.  Dennis is a humble chef, a man of few words, but when he talks you know, he is going to say something worthwhile. His culinary craft is respected among many local chefs in San Francisco, and after spending a day with him you will begin to see why.

Dennis is a chef committed to using his skills to make a difference. Just a few weeks back I contacted Dennis to see about heading up a charity dinner for Japan. I was expecting him to be incredibly busy given his time at the restaurant, farmers markets, prepping NAMU CSA baskets (check the website; I hear that chicken wings often are included and are out of this world) and frequenting city culinary events. To my surprise, Dennis immediately said he would be happy to support the cause, and not only that, he would create a special multi-course menu for the evening AND seek out donations from local city purveyors to keep costs low. What did this mean? It meant we were able to have a spectacular event that raised almost $4,000 for Japan, a fact I know would not have been possible without Dennis’s hard work both in and outside of the kitchen.

What else about Dennis and Namu? How about the fact that he is turning his restaurant into a nonprofit because in his own words, “he does not care about making money.” From our couple conversations a few things emerged about Dennis:

1) He is thoughtful – Without any suggestion from me, Dennis contacted folks from Prather Ranch, County Line, Far West Funghi, and Chue for donation ingredients to maximize the contribution to Japan

2) He exceeds all of your expectations – Chef Dennis and his sous chef Ken were hard at work from 3PM to midnight for our private dinner party. And the entire time they looked like they were enjoying themselves

3) Quality ingredients are key to Dennis – Dennis makes a point to source local, organic and sustainable product.  I was struck by the bounty showcased at our evening event. From crispy artichokes accompanied with pig skin, to seaweed radish arugula salad, to my favorite dish of seared steak over white beans, Dennis Lee knows how to satiate a range of appetites.

If you have time, try and make it over to Namu the last Monday night of the month. The restaurant hosts a late night social event (arrive after 9pm) with complimentary Asian bites. Saddle up at the bar, order a cocktail or two off the daily menu and unwind to some DJ beats.  Next one is this upcoming Monday the 25th. See you there!

Namu Restaurant
439 Balboa St (at 6th Ave)
$$

http://www.namusf.com/

Pasted below is my latest article on SF Station Yum section. Click HERE for original article.

Let me tell you a little bit about my favorite drink of choice — The Moscow Mule. The first time I tasted this libation was after a full-contact game of powder puff (more like full tackle) football.  It was one of those rare hot and humid SF days where the sun was shining over the Pacific blue and the wind was low.

The only thing that could make the day that much better after victory on the football field was an ice cold beverage that felt crisp and refreshing as it poured down my parched throat.

Our entourage headed down the street to The Tipsy Pig, and poured onto the killer outdoor patio (note: the patio is currently being renovated as I write this entry). That is when I saw it: the chilled metallic goblet glistening with condensation. The bartender served the lemony looking beverage to a nearby patron and I watched her eyes light up upon first sip. I immediately ordered a few for our group and have not looked back since.

Moscow Mules are made with vodka, ginger beer and lime. I highly recommend using Russian Standard vodka making sure to add fresh lime juice.  The result is a light, spiced refreshment that is well-balanced, not overly sweet. The ginger beer masks the taste of the vodka, which you can decide if that is a good or bad thing.

If you have a craving for a Moscow Mule in SF, hit up one of the following spots:

The Tipsy Pig: The site of my first Moscow Mule. Also known for an epic white cheddar burger and killer mac & cheese.

Cafe Des Amis: This upscale spot on Union Street has a full bar and will likely class up this beverage.

Elbo Room: A Favorite among Mission locals and those itching for some live music.

Burritt Room: In the Crescent Hotel on Stockton, this bar takes its mixology seriously. Start with the Moscow Mule then graduate on to a more adventurous libation.

Rosewood: This North Beach spot on Broadway Street has an open outdoor patio, dance floor and bar. Often assumed to be closed, it is a hidden gem right in the thick of Chinatown on Broadway.

Anne Pao is a contributing food writer for SF Station and Yum.  When she is not satisfying carnivorous tendencies, you can find her adventuring in the Bay area outdoors.  For more Pao reads check out her blog at http://sftaoofpao.com

Latest review from Yum Blog of SF Station is pasted below. For original article, click HERE.

Many people come to San Francisco and orient immediately for Chinatown to satisfy Asian food cravings. Maybe it is the clothes hanging from windows or the loud, raucous nature of Broadway, but Chinatown just does not do it for me. I prefer to head out to the Richmond and hit Clement St.

A couple weeks back I pondered where to have the next Asian Food Club. Would we try Lers Ros for legitimate Thai food in the Tenderloin? Or perhaps Turtle Tower for arguably the best bowl of pho you will find in San Francisco? Jai Yun for a multi-course Chinese kitchen dinner?  After conversing with the other members of Asian Food Club, we realized our deep hankering for one thing, and one thing only: Crab. And not just any crab, but Dungeness crab and lots of it.

We debated between iconic Thanh Long out in the boondocks, Bourdain go-to R and G Lounge in North Beach, or Vietnamese PPQ Dungeness Island on Clement.  With a name like “dungeness island” and five different types of crab on the menu including, Peppercorn, Roasted, Drunken, Curry and Spicy, PPQ became the obvious choice.

If you have a large party, try and reserve one of the bigger round tables upstairs in the banquet style room. Do not be shy about donning your plastic bib either.  After a couple hours of messy, juicy crab you will need all the protective gear you can get.

The best crabs (we tried all but the Curry) were the Peppercorn, Roasted and Spicy. The Drunken was flavorful but paled in comparison to the rest of our shelled friends.  Also, embrace your inner Asian and eat the body of the crab, it’s where the best meat is, and why not scrape out some of the crab gut morsels.

In terms of sides, you MUST order the crispy fried Peppercorn Chicken Wings appetizer.  The hot and sour catfish soup serves as a warming start to the meal.  Lastly, the meal is not complete without a double order of garlic noodles.  Prepare to drop your clothes off at the dry cleaners when done.  The crab juices and loads of garlic make the cleaning stop requisite, but believe me, the meal is well worth it.

2332 Clement St. (cross 24th St)

$$

http://www.ppqdungeness.com/index.htm

Anne Pao is a contributing food writer for SF Station and Yum.  When she is not satisfying carnivorous tendencies, you can find her adventuring in the Bay area outdoors.  For more Pao reads check out her blog at http://sftaoofpao.com

In the past year or so, I’ve noticed an increase in the number of food resources/websites offering shorter entries and news updates.  Perhaps it is the influence of Twitter, making 140 characters the preferred length of communication.

People’s attention spans are shrinking, as is their patience in waiting for the latest and greatest information available.   The food industry is not immune to this trend.  Eater is one of the most popular sites out there, combining roundups, short blips of information, and popularizing the practice of referencing other publications or websites for the latest buzz.

Call me old-fashioned but I still find longer, more in-depth reviews the most interesting, ones that provide a glimpse into the back-story of the restaurant, chef or topic at-hand.  I try to keep my reviews focused on this style of writing.  Saying that, SF Station, one of the main channels for my reviews, is following the pack and moving towards more frequent posts, even if that means having to cut back a bit on length and depth.

I have been writing for the Yum blog portion of SF Station, the restaurant/food roundup section of the online publication. Teaming with a few other local SF writers, we will each be contributing 2-4 pieces a week.  In talking with my editor, I wanted to keep my regular 2 feature articles per month that are longer in length so I can still delve deep into the more unexplored story behind a restaurant. The other articles I post each week will be shorter, and more driven around updating the public on upcoming events (cooking classes, special food events, new restaurant openings, closures, etc).

I have listed out the articles I have done over the past couple months for Yum blog while we were ramping up the site. Plan on joining full steam next week with 2 articles per week or roughly 8 per month, 2 of which will be longer feature articles.  My next feature article is supposed to go up next week. It will be on new Mission eatery, The Beast and the Hare and head chef Ian Marks.

Until then check out my Yum blog articles pasted below from the past couple months:

1) Fat Angel - wine bar with small bites, wide range of wines and beers and a bit of sass – Fillmore district

2) Dishcrawl - site that helps connect people with different food communities, match your craving to a restaurant

3) Cookhouse – gorgeous North Beach dining space with full kitchen, equipment  for rent for private dinners/parties.

4) Brick & Bottle - Corte Madera restaurant offering comfort food like mac & cheese, artisan pizzas, rotisserie chicken

5) Good Karmal – caramel candy purveyor and inspirational quotes combine for a sweet gift

6) The Brixton – new Marina tavern serving up burgers, libations in a laid-back but classy ambiance

7) $5,000 Burger – Got deep pockets? Then buy this burger. Or skip it and contribute to your 401K.

8) Bay area Dim Sum – my top picks for dim sum in the Bay area.

9) 10 Recipes to Get you Laid – someone made a book. Helping men. One poor soul at a time.

10) Leopolds restaurant – Austrian spot in Russian Hill serving up steins of beer and wienerschnitzel.

11) Sustainable Seafood – informative article on sustainable seafood and spots in the Bay area making a difference

12) Oakland Eats – Camino, Hibiscus and Boot & Shoe Service in Oakland – three restaurants worth the trip

13) The Punchdown – natural wine bar in Oakland

Pasted below is my SF Station article on Oakland Eats, a round up of restaurants across the Bay that are expanding the vibrant dining culture in Oakland. Restaurants reviewed include: Hibiscus, Camino and Boot & Shoe Service.  I have also included the link HERE to the original article on SF Station.

Oakland sits a mere twelve miles from San Francisco yet you would think a desert, glacier or an ocean (okay there is the Bay) separates San Francisco residents from the neighboring city.

It is high time to expand beyond the comfort zone of our forty-nine square mile urban sprawl and jump in a car, taxi, or BART to embrace Oakland’s recent exploding dining culture.

Hibiscus
Hibiscus just celebrated its one-year anniversary and the crowds and positive reviews are still pouring in for this charming, Oakland spot just a hop away from the Fox Theater.

Photo courtesy of Hibiscus

Head Chef Sarah Kirnon, formerly of Front Porch in San Francisco, infuses the Hibiscus menu with Caribbean-Creole flavors. The scene is hip, laid back and effortlessly warm. A large bar greets guests and memorabilia and books adorn the walls, creating a sense of nostalgia. The background beats and resident dining room piano remind you to settle into a pastel-colored church pew to enjoy an authentic, down-home meal.

The Jamaican salt fish and ackee was one of my favorite dishes of the evening.  Ackee is the fruit from an evergreen tree and when cooked, it softens to the consistency of a scrambled egg and offers a touch of sweetness. The dish is served with sweet red peppers, tomatoes, leeks and plantains, elevating the savory goodness. The dish has a bit of heat, which is a common theme throughout the menu.

The side of red beans was served perfectly al dente, not mushy at all. The best part of this dish is the depth of flavor, a result of cooking the beans in coconut milk.

There is really nothing better than a plate of finger-licking chicken and lucky for Oakland diners, Chef Kirnon has brought Miss Ollie’s fried chicken with her across the Bay. The dish is named for her grandmother and is stuffed with herbs and roasted in duck fat. The portion with new potatoes, dandelion greens and chicken gravy promises to satisfy even the heartiest of appetites. The skin is exactly what fried chicken fans seek: crunchy and brown.

Finish off with a house dessert like luscious Madagascar vanilla ice cream doused with warm chocolate sauce. http://www.sfstation.com/hibiscus-b24874751

Photo Courtesy of Camino

Camino
Perched on a quiet corner on the upper stretch of Grand Ave is Camino, the three-year-old gem from Chef Russell Moore, former produce buyer for Chez Panisse, and his wife Alison. The warm and welcoming owners decorated Camino to echo a rustic, farm-quality feel.

Brick walls, long, communal wooden tables, a tin ceiling, and large electric candle chandeliers laced with vines fill the airy Camino space. Bowls of fresh, locally sourced fruits and vegetables adorn the counter around the restaurant’s main attraction: the hearth stone fireplace where Russ cooks dishes over an open flame.

Russ creates Camino’s daily menu and then tweaks it throughout the day based on what is and is not working. The majority of the food costs at Camino are produce-based, partly because of the quality of goods from local suppliers like Mariquita Farm and River Dog, but also because of the sheer quantity.

Chef Russ emphasizes continuity. The staff works only four shifts per week, but they are long all-day shifts. This practice is purposeful; helping to ensure a dish is prepped, created and finished by the same person.

The food at Camino is simple and traditional. I recommend starting your meal with the grilled local sardine, a plentiful serving with a bed of puntarelle salad and garnish of crispy duck cracklings. The dish bursts with olive oil and herbs and the fish meat separates nicely from the bones.

The half Dungeness crab comes with new potatoes, bitter chicories, sweet julienne carrots and freshly-made herb mayonnaise. I embraced this hands-on dish, devouring the juicy meat and roasted flavor of the sea. The dessert of fresh bay leaf panna cotta with huckleberries tempted, but I was far too full. http://www.sfstation.com/camino-b24874741

Boot and Shoe Service
“Keep it simple, stupid.” Chef Charlie Hallowell, former vet of Chez Panisse and owner of fan favorite Pizzaiolo, appears to identify with this wise adage. His latest offering to the Oakland restaurant scene is Boot and Shoe Service, a pizza joint with a down-sized menu of antipasti appetizers and ten pizza pies.

The clever restaurant name pays homage to a former tenant who operated a cobbler shop in the same space. Boot and Shoe Service is small with brick walls, dim lighting and loud (sometimes raucous) music as your companion for the evening. The restaurant does not accept reservations for its Tuesday through Saturday dinner service so post up at the marble bar and sip a cocktail. I recommend the Corpse Reviver #2, a libation mixing Lillet, Cointreau, gin, absinthe/pastis with lemon juice.

Although some guests complain about the smaller appetizers at Boot and Shoe Service, I am excited to see oven-baked Monterey Bay squid on the menu with Treviso, citrus, and faro. The luscious burrata with a side of toast will make jealous any lactose-intolerant diner.

Yet it really is all about the thin crust pizzas at Boot and Shoe Service. Even Charlie Sheen would call the charred crust and pliable dough from the wood-fired oven a “winning” combination. Hallowell sources local, quality ingredients from suppliers with a penchant for sustainability. Traditionalists will enjoy simple pies like marinara or margherita di bufala. I recommend embracing your more creative taste profile and opting for the potato, pancetta, fontina and rosemary pie or one with manila clams, green garlic and parsley.

If you are a topping whore like me and always scour the menu for an egg to throw on the top, prepare to get happy. Hallowell has standard add-ons of egg, arugula, sausage, calabrian peppers or anchovies. http://www.sfstation.com/boot-and-shoe-service-b24874761

Pasted below is my latest SF Station article on different spots in SF to satiate your rotisserie chicken cravings. One Market, Roli Roti and Limon Rotisserie are the featured restaurants.  For the actual story click this LINK.
SF is a city with a plentiful rotisserie options. Local favorite Zuni Café was one of the first to make famous rotisserie chicken, redefining “finger-licking good.” Zuni’s chicken is almost unparalleled, and as expected, grabbing a reservation requires a bit of advance planning. Luckily for diners, SF has a number of other options to help satisfy the rotisserie craving.

One Market
SF is notorious for its chill-you-to-the-bone winters, and with snow on the top of Mt. Tam in recent weeks, it seems like warmth is not in the near future. Many a San Franciscan will be in pursuit of comfort and satisfaction; and “spit-roasted” sounds just about right. Enter One Market and head Chef Marc Dommen.

Dommen is known for adding dishes to his menu on a trial basis to see how they fare with the San Francisco public. Right now, Dommen is testing out poultry cravings with the heartily-portioned “Mary’s spit-roasted chicken for two.” Make sure to order the bird at the beginning of the meal as it takes fifty-five minutes to prepare.

The chicken is the evening’s star, crowned with a fresh sprig of rosemary and served on a shiny silver platter. Leave your rubbery, dry flavorless chicken at the door because One Market meat is tender and juicy, with an underlying smokiness. My only issue is the skin. I love a golden, crispy skin — the kind that you want to pull apart with your fingers, stuff into your mouth and eat voraciously. Although One Market’s chicken is flavorful, the skin lacked that crispy quality, making me think it should have cooked a bit longer.

From a satisfaction perspective, diners will not have any issue as the pampered bird is accompanied with two Farmer’s Market sides of your choice. I recommend the chunkier green nettle parmesan polenta and large potato tots with tangy, homemade ketchup.

Do yourself a favor and order the shaved beef tongue salad served with cabbage and rye croutons and horseradish, a clever play on the popular Reuben sandwich. The Tasmanian ocean trout piled on a hash brown cake and topped with a pastured egg is the nighttime version of an egg’s benedict. Hungry yet? http://www.sfstation.com/one-market-restaurant-b5162

Roli Roti
You have likely seen the daunting 20-30 person line at the Ferry Building Farmer’s Market. No, this is not Blue Bottle Coffee, it’s Roli Roti, which prepares one of the best rotisserie chickens for a measly $12.

I rarely support obnoxious long lines, yet Roli Roti is one line I will gladly wait in again for another affair with the succulent, juicy meat and browned skin with just the right amount of spices. It tastes as good as it smells and looks. Take a moment and picture this image: a metallic food truck, five to seven workers expertly carving chicken for the crowd before them. At least forty to fifty glistening rotisserie chickens slowly turn and drip with juice. The line moves quickly, and if you only want the chicken hit the express lane on the far left.

Rotisserie chicken is not the only treasure offered by Roli Roti among a sea of food vendors. I would be remiss if I did not touch on my new favorite sandwich, the wonder that is porchetta.

Porchetta is boneless, fatty pork tenderloin wrapped in pork belly then spit-roasted. The best part about the meat is the crackling pork skin, which makes you forsake any commitment to being healthy for the day. Add caramelized onions, bright arugula, and a fresh batard, and the masterpiece is complete. http://www.sfstation.com/ferry-plaza-farmers-market-b747

Limon Rotisserie
When you have the word “rotisserie” in the name of your restaurant, you mean business. Walking into Limon Rotisserie for a girls’ Valentines Day dinner, I was immediately greeted by smells of cumin and citrus, and sounds of fast-paced salsa music and the rumblings of lively conversation.

Limon Rotisserie, in the Mission District, is the sister restaurant to Limon, the Valencia Street predecessor more focused on ceviches and other Peruvian specialties. It serves up small plates — known as piqueos in Peru — but is really known for the pollo a la brasa. The chicken exudes that familiar flavor of ajo — garlic to the non-Spanish speaker.

To say the meat is juicy is an understatement. You can almost taste the hours that went into marinating this spice-loaded bird. I am a sauce fiend, especially when it comes to Peruvian favorites like chimichurri, spicy rocoto or aji, but with the wave of juices in each bite of rotisserie chicken I barely noticed the trio of salsas as I was too busy housing my half chicken. Good thing I had tacu tacu (crispy rice cake with beans that resembles a Latin mini casserole) and yucca fries to dip later.

Limon Rotisserie is one of the few sit-down restaurants in SF that will fill you up with a ceviche, main dish, two sides and maybe a glass of sangria for under $30. I wish I could say the ambiance was as good of a deal, but it turned out to be more of a schizophrenic episode. The upstairs dining room is sleek with avocado walls, large colorful paintings and a bar to pony up at while you wait for a table to open. However, the downstairs is a mishmash of neon orange lights, low booths, odd wall murals and exposed ceiling piping that does not exactly spell out “romance” or even intimacy. Our party agreed that it bordered on a cross between a rundown gentleman’s club from the eighties and Chuckee Cheese, a fact that unfortunately distracted us from fully enjoying our meal. Next time I will either make sure I sit upstairs or opt for take-out. http://www.sfstation.com/limon-rottiserie-b24597232