Copied below is my review from SF Station on Luce chef, Dominique Crenn.  I have also included the link (click HERE) to the original SF Station article.

Like many patrons, I have scoffed more than once at the thought of eating at a hotel restaurant. So many fail to impress with their lack of inspiration and creativity. There is one other thing they lack: a compelling story — and SF diners love a good story. Fear not San Francisco. One chef is helping to restore the reputation of hotel restaurants, and the name of that chef is Dominique Crenn.
Every story needs inspiration
“Know the story…the story on the plate.” Dominique Crenn, head chef of Michelin star recipient, Luce restaurant in the Intercontinental Hotel, offers this simple advice when we sit down to chat. It is a cold and blustery Saturday, yet after entering Luce I feel my body warm. The ambiance is upscale, sleek, intimate, and inviting. Beats from Groove Armada whisper in your ear and muted black and brown colors adorn the airy space. Ceiling-to-floor windows suggest a fishbowl, but curtains provide just the right amount of privacy. Luce (pronounced “Loo-che”) is not your stereotypical hotel restaurant with bad décor and even worse food. Luce has something failing hotel restaurants do not: inspiration, and more importantly, a story.

Chief Protagonist: Dominique Crenn
Chef Dominique Crenn, with her large brown eyes, dark hair, and kind smile is both striking and welcoming. Ethnically Moroccan, but raised by adoptive French parents in the farming town of Brittany, France, Dominique developed an appreciation for food early on.

While the rest of us were busy learning table manners, Dominique visited Michelin restaurants with her politician father and his best friend, a well-respected food critic. Do not be fooled by Dominique’s pretty features, or by the fact that she was once a ballerina-in-training. With her crisp, white chef’s outfit and tattooed arms, sheis here to cook. When asked about her recent win against Michael Symon on Iron Chef America, she flashes a smile and playfully admits how she did not just win, she “kicked his ass.”

Honor Thy Farmer
Dominique is a chef unafraid to speak her mind, but shares her passions with a sincere softness that immediately wins you over. When asked for her thoughts on the recent trend of organic, sustainable food, she emphasized that “it’s never been a trend to me. This is a part of me.”

She is the genuine article, a chef with substance. “Food is about memories and understanding where food comes from. The story starts with the soil,” she says.

Dominique collaborates with farmers and has tremendous respect for the amount of work they contribute. In her eyes, “chefs are responsible for bringing the view to the public … it is much more than being organic.”

This passion for relating farmers’ stories influenced her to partner with CUESA to launch the “Moveable Feast” dinners. The concept? Honor relationships between Bay Brea chefs and farmers by creating a multi-course menu showcasing the bounty of the evening’s featured farmer.
Commitment to Creativity
Dominique’s worldly upbringing is the DNA of Luce’s new American fine dining. She creates the moderately portioned menu and adjusts it with input from her fifteen-person staff. She aspires to run a restaurant that gathers everyone’s input and unites it around creativity.

Jeremiah Tower (formerly of Stars restaurant) sculpted Dominique’s philosophy with his liberal approach to cooking. Tower would write the menu the night before, provide modest guidelines, and then leave dish interpretations up to the responsible cook. Dominique admires the practice for the way it garners trust and allows for unbridled creativity.

Healthy Competition
A true competitor, Dominique was a contestant on The Next Iron Chef and also a victor in Iron Chef America. She credits her victory for “Challenge: Yogurt” to ingredient ingenuity. She utilized yogurt in a variety of forms, manipulating texture to create different experiences. Dominique swept the competition with dishes like cucumber consommé and yogurt sorbet, fried yogurt, and yogurt pot de feu. The inventive dishes highlighted Dominique’s risk-taking and breadth of experience, and smartly contrasted with Symon’s heavier offerings.

Yet the cameras did not show Dominique’s tough-as-nails perseverance. The taping coincided with the 10th anniversary of her father’s death. She also prepared the entire meal with a bandaged hand after suffering a laceration. Dominique is a woman who does not believe in excuses, and we love her for it.

Food a la Crenn
Dominique believes people have grown tired of heavier meals and are nostalgic for experiences where they can learn about food and its journey to the plate. The menu at Luce echoes seasonality and an exotic range of ingredients.

The protein selection is impressive, with venison, quail, abalone. and foie gras. I mentioned my love for foie and Dominique hustled to the back to whip some up, accompanied with compressed persimmon and slightly sweet marmalade. The entire dish danced elegantly on the clean white plate. The rich foie delicately perched atop house-made toasted brioche cut neatly into small rectangles. The persimmon added brightness and its complementary fruity notes balanced the earthy foie. The marmalade was a quick reminder of Dominique’s love affair with texture.

I will most definitely return to try the abalone and pork belly appetizer and the beef tenderloin with oxtail, Gouda, and comte gratin. The bar menu is equally delectable, with the roasted bone marrow catching my attention.

Where Dominique Eats
Dominique loves Vietnamese food, especially from hole-the-wall spots in the Tenderloin. She never regrets a trip to Zuni and has recently been frequenting Bar Jules. She speaks glowingly about Coi in North Beach, a restaurant also known for fine dining. Finally, if you have not dined at Frances yet, go quickly and save Dominique a seat at the bar.

Holiday Tips
With holiday season upon us, I asked Dominique for tips on larger parties. She shares that the first step is to “create an element of dining where everyone can relate.” Add personal touches with seat cards and small thoughtful gifts, or engage everyone with a story. If hosting is not your forte, make a smart decision and keep Luce in mind for the Christmas or New Year’s Eve menu.

            The first stop of my Pao Pisco Pilgrimage was La Mar Cebicheria, the highly acclaimed Peruvian restaurant introduced to the Embarcadero by celebrity chef, Gaston Acurio.  La Mar reminds me a bit of a large, noisy Vegas restaurant, only it has better food, tastier cocktails and an element of class.  Vibrant blue-colored aesthetics flow throughout the white-walled space that can reach loud volumes quickly.  Apparently the patrons of La Mar did not receive the memo about the current economic crisis; every time I’ve been the restaurant has been filled to capacity.  A couple Thursdays ago the story was no different. My friend Marianna and I arrived to a packed house shortly after 8:30PM, famished after a tough vinyasa flow class and thirsty for a pair of pisco cocktails.    

            I’ve eaten at La Mar a handful of times and can say with certainty that the ceviche is some of the best I’ve tasted outside of Peru.  I’m a classical ceviche fan, preferring the robust flavors of leche de tigre (lime juice and spicy pepper), red onion, cured fish, shellfish and a side of sweet yam to the more unconventional preparations.  Nevertheless, I was impressed with La Mar’s incorporation of Chinese and Japanese influences, offering ceviche chifa and ceviche nikei as other possibilities on the menu.  If you’re like me and enjoy a variety of samplings at each meal, try the ceviche tasting to start – you will not be disappointed. 

            The anticuchos de pulpo (octopus skewers) are also a must.  The octopus is grilled to perfection, leaving the meat juicy and succulent.  It is served over a bed of Peruvian style mashed potatoes and drizzled with a tangy green chimichurri sauce and spicy ahi.  My other menu favorites include the cau cau de mariscos – a spicy seafood risotto with fresh clams and scallops – and the only beef dish on the menu: lomo saltado.  Saltado is the Peruvian version of a stir fry, and La Mar’s dish pairs tender pieces of beef tenderloin with tomatoes, red onion, cilantro, and French fries.

            While I could easily dedicate this entry to an exhaustive detail of La Mar’s culinary creations…that is not the primary purpose of this post.  So let’s take a quick vuelta and get back to the topic at hand: Pisco.  Each of La Mar’s eleven signature cocktails has Pisco as its primary foundation.  The Peruvian brandy is served with a multitude of unique ingredients like orange flower water, ginger syrup and agave nectar.  There are Peruvian versions of several traditional cocktails including the Bloody Lorcho (similar to a Bloody Mary only served with Pisco and fresh octopus) and the Cholopolitan (like a Cosmopolitan but with Pisco and Passion Fruit).   

My two cocktails for the evening included the Pisco Punch and the Chicha Tu Ma!  The two beverages had distinct flavor profiles that were equally tasty and satisfying.  I had to try the Pisco Punch given its San Francisco roots (if you remember from my post http://sftaoofpao.com/2010/02/23/pao-pisco-pilgrimage-inca-trail-cocktail-recipe/ Pisco Punch was created right here in San Francisco by Duncan Nicol in a bar by the TransAmerica building).  The punch is served in a large wine glass with slices of lemon, orange and lime.  This citrus blend complements the smooth, natural flavor of pisco quebranta, masking its alcohol content which can be equally good and dangerous.  The cocktail is light and refreshing with a foamy, frothy top layer that leaves you wanting more of its pleasant hints of bitterness. 

            Our second cocktail was the Chicha Tu Ma!  (Yes, La Mar adds punctuation to the name and I feel pretty exclamatory just thinking about the cocktail).  It is a mixture of pisco quebranta, chicha morada, triple sec and passion fruit.   Chances are you might not recognize the ingredient “chicha morada.”  Chicha exists in many forms in Latin America.  The first time I had it was at a rodeo in Santiago, Chile on National Day.  As we watched the local Chileans do the National dance, and Chilean cowboys (vaqueros) ride bulls, we were happy to throw back pitcher after pitcher of this fermented alcoholic beverage that boasted an essence of apples and grapes.  Peru’s “chicha morada” is also sweet, but not fermented.  It is derived from purple maize (corn) and serves as a natural antioxidant that is believed to help lower blood pressure.  La Mar’s Chicha Tu Ma! is served up in a martini glass.  The passion fruit and chicha morada provide the drink with a deep purple hue, and a thin garnish of orange peel adds a colorful contrast.  The cocktail is considerably sweeter than the Pisco Punch, and has a syrupy quality that coats your tongue.  I would happily Pao Sip either of these two cocktails again but I must say my curiosity will probably lead me on to a different Pisco pilgrimage on my next visit to La Mar.  Looking at the menu I think Passion Andina (pisco, mint, passion fruit and lime) will be my next stop. 

http://www.lamarcebicheria.com/web/index.php

The Mile High Club

As I start this entry, I’m sitting in a 2 feet by 2 feet chair (or box) perched 40,000 feet in the air.  That’s right people. Delta has Wi-Fi and I intend to use it.  Please excuse any typos that may make it through, I’ve been hit in the head and shoulder about 20 times from passer-byers walking up and down the aisle on my 5 hour flight.  I suppose that is what I get for wanting easy access to complimentary beverages and the bathroom.  With 3 more hours till I land in Cincinnati (followed soon after by a prop plane flight to North Carolina) what better time than now to update SF Tao of Pao with the latest Burger Club rendezvous at 21^st Amendment Brewery in SOMA. 

Background

On a rainy night last week, I met up with about 10 other burger enthusiasts at the local alehouse just down from AT&T Park.  As I drove down 2^nd Street, I felt a bit nervous seeing policeman directing traffic due to a blackout that affected the surrounding blocks.  Would my night of burgers and watermelon beer be spoiled by the inclement weather?  I held my breath, waiting to find out as I walked up to the hot spot.  Luckily, 21^st Amendment narrowly escaped this dark fate and as a result, it was filled with hungry clients and beer drinkers, all looking for a sanctuary in which to warm their bodies and fill their stomachs. I’m glad I called ahead for a table because this place was PACKED.  Giants’ fans.  Tourists.  Locals.  SOMA tech geeks.  Financial district d-bags.  For a Wednesday night, it was a rowdy and diverse scene and our group was ready to engage.

The name “21^st Amendment” makes reference to the amendment ratified to end Prohibition.  Let’s take a brief flashback to 1920.  Women had just made major headway, winning the right to vote, yet the abundant brewpub culture came to a screeching halt with the introduction of Prohibition.  For 13 years the pubs dried out and beer drinking bordered on extinction.  Is it just coincidence that the Great Depression hit 9 years later in 1929?  I don’t think so. You try going 13 years without a sip of your favorite ale and then tell me how happy and hopeful you are. 

Founders of 21^st Amendment Brewery, Nico Freccia and Shaun O’Sullivan, opened the local alehouse centered on, “The Right to Be Original.”  The brewery is a big “F you” to the Prohibition, or any force that seeks to threaten originality, innovation, or just general enjoyment of life.  The attitude comes through in its beer names; like the Bitter American or Brew Free! Or Die IPA – an India Pale Ale which the founders describe as a “sucker punch of six different hops.”  The beer is malt brewed and definitely provides a quick hit to the face with 7% alcohol by volume.  Their latest creation, Monk’s Blood, is a tribute to Belgian monks, who in times of fast, subsisted on beer.  The brew is dark and rich, with hints of cinnamon, vanilla bean and figs.  You can buy them in four-packs and with 8.3% alcohol volume, each can has you praising the heavens.

Eat, Drink and Be Merry

Multiple people recommended 21^st Amendment for its tasty Build-Your-Own burgers and variety of locally-brewed beer.   What goes better together than beers and burgers?  Yup, I can’t think of anything else either.  Except maybe beers, burgers and football.  With TV screens and plenty of space to mingle, 21^st Amendment is a place to get aggressive, and we had an aggressive group on site that evening.

Our table started the meal with a couple appetizers: golden beer-battered onion hoops and zucchini strings.  The onion hoops were lightly battered, which allowed for crisp, hot bites – something I appreciate because soggy ones are just LTI (Less Than Impressive).  The thick slices were served with a spicy play on ketchup.  Although I am normally a strict Heinz 57 loyalist, I supported this extra flavor accent.  The zucchini strings were thinly sliced with a buttermilk batter, allowing for a salty, crunchy experience.  The side dip of garlic aioli was a welcome change from typical ranch dressing.  They were definitely a step up from the zucchini fries I ate at Keller’s Burger Bar a couple months back (Link: http://sftaoofpao.com/pao-chow-parent/the-last-suppers-part-1-bushi-tei-and-burger-bar/).

With fried goodness covering our tongues, we were in the mood for a thirst-quenching drink to help offset the saltiness.  21^st Amendment offers an extensive selection: Belgian style beers, stouts, the aforementioned IPAs, and my favorite – the famed Hell or High Watermelon Wheat Beer.  Every batch is fermented with 400 lbs of fresh watermelon puree and juice.  I’d had the canned version of this prior (you can buy it at local Safeways in the city) but ordering at the alehouse is the way to go.  It’s served in a tall pilsner glass, filled to the brim with watermelon beer, and includes a slice of watermelon as garnish.  I had never dipped watermelon in beer before, but I certainly did that Wednesday night and will definitely be repeating.  The beer’s subtle watermelon flavor is not overwhelming, nor is it overly sweet like other fruit-infused beers I’ve had in the past.  It is refreshing, light and goes down easily.  No wonder Draft Magazine named it the Top Summer Beer of 2009.  My second beer was a stronger Holiday Spice beer that left my tongue buzzing with the familiar citrus acidity common to many Belgian beers. 

Now on to the main topic of the day: Build-Your-Own- burgers.  21^st Amendment offers only the finest Niman Ranch ground beef chuck.  Every burger automatically comes with thick-sliced tomatoes and heaps of grilled onions.  Fries or mixed greens are a typical addition, or you can opt for Kennebec potato chips.  For your burger build, you can choose from a selection of different toppings, all priced between $1.00 and $1.50 each.  For the dairy group, enjoy the typical array of Swiss, cheddar, jack or bleu cheeses.  Other toppings include sprouts, fresh jalapenos, bacon, avocado, sautéed mushrooms and homemade chili.

For my meal that day I opted for my typical go-to: Swiss cheese and mushrooms and also stole a number of jalapenos from my friend Phyllis.  I ordered my burger medium-rare (obviously) and it was executed to perfection with a healthy amount of pink in the middle of my patty.  I was impressed with the healthy load of toppings on my burger, especially the sheer amount of melted Swiss, but I must say the sautéed mushrooms had a weird aftertaste so I will skip them next time I go.    My friend Carlos ordered his burger with bacon and avocado and touts it as one of the best burgers he’s had in the city.  Normally I would be cautious believing such potential exaggeration, but Carlos is a man who knows his food and takes it seriously.

Verdict:

In the end of it all, I would rate 21^st Amendment Brewery as hands-down a Pao Wow on both the Pao Chow and Pao Sip fronts.  The service was prompt, the drinks plentiful and creative, the scene perfect for a large rambunctious group of carnivores, and the juicy burgers met, if not exceeded our taste expectations.  Aside from all this, the establishment espouses a liberal challenge to authority or anything that threatens to control the human spirit.  This characteristic is only too appropriate for our great city of San Francisco, and reminds us to not just quench our thirst, but to do so with originality.

www.21st-amendment.com

            Yet before I embark on this mini-vacation from eating out, I feel it absolutely necessary to include a two-part abridged run-down of the last five restaurants I hit up.  Try not to drool.

Things White (and Asian) People Like: Bushi-Tei

      Asian fusion is not a new concept, yet head chef Seiji Wakabayashi (known more simply as Chef Waka) manages to elevate this popular restaurant theme to new heights with the Michelin 1 star rated gem, Bushi-Tei.  The Japantown favorite spotlights the synergy between Waka’s classical French expertise (he was the head chef at Audine in Sausalito for years) and his secondary training in Japan; a throwback to his Japanese roots.  Bushi-Tei’s décor is modern and formal, with elements of Japanese design.  Dark wooden walls add an element of coziness, and glass partitions offer guests an extra level of privacy.  You may notice the host in her traditional Japanese kimono, and make sure not to miss the high-tech Japanese toilet in the bathroom, complete with “front” and “rear” cleansers. 

     Let’s get down to the food. There are 3 course and 5 course prix fixe options, but my friend Kelly and I opted to explore our creative sides and to customize our own menu.  Everything is made in-house at Bushi-Tei, from the rice bread served at the start of dinner to each delectable appetizer or entrée, to the dessert menu (two words – Apple Dumpling). 

To say the appetizer menu is impressive is a serious understatement. Quenelle de Mer, Foie Gras, Langoustino, Chicken Confit.  I looked at the list of 10 or 12 appetizers and realized I would be extraordinarily excited to try ANY of them.  Based on my recent blast of tuna tartares in (http://sftaoofpao.com/pao-chow-parent/top-5-most-overrated-dishes/), you may be surprised to know that we opted for the Big Eye Tuna Tartare to start our appetizer tour, and I may have to eat my words because I am not one bit sorry I ordered it. 

The tuna is finely chopped with Japanese sprouts, shaped into a tower, and perched on a bed of diced avocado.  Wasabi-Crème Fraiche binds the sculpture and you may even catch the subtle taste of coriander seed.  My favorite topping on the dish is fresh tobiko (Japanese fish roe).  For appetizer 2 we ordered the Lobster and Crab Chrysanthemum Leaf Salad.  I have never had chrysanthemum leaf before and was pleasantly surprised at how well its slight bitterness paired with the sweetness of the shellfish.  Papaya, bacon and curry oil added another level of depth and you’ll notice that Chef Waka does not hold back on his portions of crab or lobster. 

After two seafood appetizers, the carnivores in us were drawn to the Braised Ton Toro (pork belly) served with ginger cabbage and a sherry vinegar.  This was tasty but nothing too out of the ordinary for a pork belly dish. 

For our mains we enjoyed the Orata.  Orata is a type of white fish called sea bream.  Bushi-Tei serves it on a layer of potato mousseline – similar to a puree, and then dresses the dish up with the strong complementary flavors of fennel and chanterelle mushrooms.  The fish is served with skin on, which I definitely recommend eating.  The slight crispiness of the skin adds a bit of texture to this otherwise smoothly layered choice. 

For our second entrée we ordered the Sonoma Duck Breast which came served over a bed of lightly sautéed baby mizuna – a tangy Japanese green that reminds me a bit of dandelion greens. A mascarpone mustard and dried chutney add a level of depth and sweetness that helped offset the slightly bitter flavor of the mizuna. 

One of the best parts about Bushi-Tei is the service – it really elevates the meal to a full dining experience. From the moment we arrived, our server showed excitement over the menu, attention to detail, and a genuine concern that we enjoy each moment of our meal.  He was knowledgeable about the wine options and potential pairings, and offered small tastings of the different varieties until we found one that matched our preference.  With a relaxed and intimate dining environment, expertly crafted cuisine and warm and attentive service, I would highly recommend Bushi-Tei as a “Pao Wow” choice in Japantown.

http://www.bushi-tei.com/

Burger Club rates Burger Bar

            For those of you that do not know this – I am a meat enthusiast.  Perhaps I should be more specific – a burger enthusiast.  I am the founder of the LA Burger Club and now the SF Burger Club. What is a burger club you ask?  Simple really – people get together all the time for shared interests – book clubs, wine clubs, and sewing clubs.  So why not have a club dedicated to the love and enjoyment of red meat; and even more – burgers?  It started as a joke with some girlfriends from UCLA.  Our guy friends told us that we were the only girls who liked eating red meat and burgers more than any crew of men they associated with.  Someone mentioned, “Ha, – we should start a club.” And the rest is, well, history.  LA Burger Club had up to 60 members, all friends or friends of friends – no randoms. SF Burger Club is now at around 70+ members.  Yes, I know you are already thinking – are there “rules” to being in Burger Club? Ha ha, you witty person, the first rule of Burger Club is you do not talk about Burger Club! I’ve heard that. Many times. Yet there actually are three simple rules to Burger Club:

1)      You must like red meat, or be a very cool vegetarian.  Don’t come to Burger Club and think you can order a pizza. Burger Club is not for the faint of heart (or the faint of stomach).

2)      No cheapies.  You know who you are. The guy who always “magically disappears” when the bill comes. Or shorts the bill $5 thinking no one will notice that he ordered a beer.  Burger Club generally means group outings, so expect to throw in a couple extra bucks. Things just work out when everyone rounds up.

3)      You must be cool and sociable. Burger Club is interactive and involves several different groups of friends. Generally it’s a place to interact with people from all the many SF neighborhoods, because really, what is more unifying than a large slab of meat?

In all honesty, I am probably being half serious about the above “rules” but I do like throwing them out there to separate the half-hearted carnivores from the truly committed.

Now onto the topic at hand: Burgers.  The number one question I get when people know I founded a burger club is obvious: What is the best burger in San Francisco?  It’s difficult to limit the answer to just 1 as we’ve been to over 30 places in the last 3 years and so many factors beyond meat and toppings go into making the “perfect burger.” So I’ll narrow it to the Top 5:

1)      Joe’s Cable Car (on Silver – a bit of a hike – known for using hand ground beef chuck – enough said)

2)      Chez Maman (multiple locations in Potrero, Union St – Gamine is its new name – quality meat on a ciabatta with your choice of added A+ toppings – I recommend the fried egg with gruyere and bacon)

3)      Darla’s on 9^th and Irving (try their ground sirloin burger that comes on a French baguette with swiss and mushrooms – tasty)

4)      Street on Polk and Vallejo (more of a sit down, upscale diner but their burger is pretty legit)

5)      Mega Mouth Burgers in the Mission (you will definitely leave full and the burger is a perfect combination of tasty bun, toppings and moist, well-seasoned meat)

Now that we have a reference point with respect to burger spots, we can discuss the latest creation from Hubert Keller (famed chef of Fleur de Lys and finalist in Top Chef Masters) – Burger Bar SF.

I have to say, when I heard Hubert Keller was opening a new restaurant dedicated just to the expert execution of burgers, I was ecstatic and could not wait to test it out.  I gathered 20 people from SF Burger Club and was pumped at how easy it was to get a table at the new location above Macy’s in Union Square.  The restaurant staff was helpful and accommodating to our party, giving us a choice long table with a complete aerial view of downtown city center.  The menu at first glance had some impressive and creative options.  

The “Build-Your-Own Burger” components were exhaustive to say the least:

- Meat: choice of Black Angus beef, Country Natural (sustainable ranching), American Kobe, Buffalo

- Bun: just a few choices included Poppy Seed, Wheat, Onion and Ciabatta

Burger Bar breaks toppings (besides traditional lettuce, tomato, pickle, onions which come for free) into 8 sub groupings:

The Garden: vegetable options such as sprouts, cucumber, jalapeno

The Dairy: 8 different cheese choices

The Grill: grilled veggies or pineapple

The Farm: protein options like jalapeno bacon, prosciutto, a fried egg or foie gras

The Ocean: grilled half lobster (yes, lobster is on the menu as an ADD), shrimp

The Pantry: different sauces like aioli, salsa, and cranberry sauce

The Earth: mushrooms and truffles for you high-end rollers

Fleur De Lys Sauces: reduction sauce, peppercorn sauce, black truffle

There are also multiple vegetarian or non-red meat options like turkey burgers, salmon burgers or chicken breast. 

Instead of doing a Build-Your-Own-Burger you can select one of the “Chef’s Burgers”.  There is the Hubert Keller Burger, which is buffalo meat served with caramelized onions, sautéed baby spinach, blue cheese, all served on a ciabatta bun.  Two other Chef Burgers that caught my eye were the Surf and Turf which is a combination of Black Angus beef, a lobster tail and asparagus.  I thought this was an interesting concept and although I love the two unique sets of protein, I am not too sure how well lobster would complement a hunk of red meat.  The other option that I’d love to try is the Rossini burger.  The Rossini comes in at a whopping $60 a pop, and for good reason. It’s served with Kobe beef, foie gras, and Black Perigord truffles, all on an onion bun, served with Madeira sauce. 

I opted for the Build-Your-Own-Burger option and made my creation with the following ingredients:

Country Natural beef

Onion bun

Peppercorn cream sauce

Jalapeno bacon

Sliced cucumbers

Swiss Cheese

Regular lettuce, tomato, onions

Sautéed mushrooms

The meat was cooked perfectly and when my creation came out, it was quite possibly the most beautiful burger I’ve ever seen.  Everything was layered perfectly and the bun did not fall apart after I combined all my ingredients.  I was really excited to see how the taste lived up to the appearance with that first bite, but I must say I was a bit disappointed. Perhaps this is the problem with the Build-Your-Own-Burger option. I had the sense that the various toppings ended up competing with each other for taste, so it did not fuse together as well as I would have liked. I asked other burger club members about their meals and they agreed, the burger was tasty, expertly cooked, with impressive presentation but something was missing. 

I even tried the Hubert Keller Burger, and although it was quite tasty, I still was not blown away.  I did not get the same level of overall satisfaction as I have from my Top 5 burgers above.  I’m not sure if it is because my expectations were over-hyped given that it is Hubert Keller.  Overall, I’d rate the burgers at Burger Bar at around a 7 or 7.5. 

I also think I need to touch on the sides and drink options available.  Despite my excitement to try the Zucchini Fries, Beer Battered Jalapeno Pickles, Sweet Potato fries and Skinny Fries, I ended the meal underwhelmed by each option.  For drinks, we tried a couple of the near $10 shakes and came to the same conclusion.  They were a bit runny and overall just disappointing. When I pay $10 for a shake I expect it to be one of the best shakes I’ve ever had. Unfortunately this was not the case. I actually had to send my chocolate/Oreo shake back because it was runny chocolate milk with too much chocolate fudge and no chunkiness.  I do think it is only fair though to mention that my friend’s Alcoholic Mint Chocolate signature shake was much tastier. 

In the end, yes, I think Burger Bar has a great concept, location and potential to be really fantastic, but needs to spend a few more months getting the rhythm down and seeing what works and what does not work. Maybe our meal was less impressive because it was only a month since the restaurant had opened. Maybe we can blame ordering the Build-Your-Own Burger or Shake options for the less-than-stellar taste experience.  I think if you decide to check it out, stick with the restaurant-created options and you may fair better than our table did. Burger Bar is not a more of a “Pao Later” than a “Pao Now.”

Link to website: http://www.fleurdelyssf.com/

       Anyone who has ever been to the Inner Richmond will undoubtedly notice one thing. There are a lot of Asians out there. And where there are many Asians, there also generally follows a good selection of Asian restaurants.  I’m half Asian – a mutt, hybrid, or “hapa haoli” as I was called when I lived in Hawaii.  And any real Asian knows one that there is one thing we all identify with: enjoying good food.  Food is a huge part of our culture. That movie “Eat, Drink, Man, Woman?” Oscar winner for foreign film of the year in the early nineties? Yeah, pretty much my life.  Relationships and friendships are forged around food. When I go on vacation with my family, half the plans center about where we are going to eat? When is the next meal? While other families took camping trips and learned how to fish?  I learned how you debone a fish, crack Dungeness crab with my teeth and cook pig’s feet.  Classmates would bring peanut butter and jelly sandwiches to school. Me? My dad would usually whip up some tofu, pickled Asian radish stir fry and maybe even throw in a side of sautéed pig ears. You think I am joking, but that was life in the Pao household.        Saying that, you can imagine how seriously I take my Asian cuisine. Don’t give me any of that “Asian fusion” crap or Americanized Chinese food.  Orange chicken? Sweet and sour pork?  I’d rather eat quiche (FYI – I hate quiche. Only food I don’t like. Bad experience at age 5 that I don’t want to talk about).  I get very excited when I’m introduced to a new Asian restaurant that manages to distinguish itself with simple, well-executed food that pulls from the influences of its roots.  Burma SuperStar, a mainstay in the Inner Richmond, does just that.

Scene

            This is not your Yank Sing or Ana Mandara Asian restaurant with fancy tablecloths and ornate décor.  Nope. At Burma SuperStar it’s all about the food.  Simple wooden tables, minimalist Burmese décor and dozens of reviews and awards from the city of San Francisco fill the small, loud room with hungry patrons.  An old maroon valance with a gold lettered sign does not differentiate it from the dozen of other surrounding Asian restaurants on Clement Ave.  Then why is this place so popular? Why, after three years living in the city, when so many restaurants are closing or facing the problem of empty tables, can I always expect to wait 30 minutes to an hour and not feel cheated at the end of the meal?  The answer is simple: creative, full-flavored food.  There is not a thing on the Burma SuperStar menu that does not seem inventive and enticing to try. 

Food and Inspiration

            Where does this innovative menu come from?  What is its inspiration? Geographically, Burma (also known as Myanmar) is bordered by China, Laos, Thailand, India and Bangladesh.  Each of these countries has very diverse cuisine, but the common thread is an emphasis on strong flavors that have influenced the menu at Burma SuperStar.  On a recent Thursday I went there with my old college roommate, Christina.  Christina and I have fairly different tastes. She does not eat any red meat; I love all kinds of meat, especially anything that comes from a cow or pig. She likes more mild flavors; I will always opt for spice, once eating a pack of 35 jalapenos in four days.  How was this going to work going at a restaurant like Burma SuperStar?  I can say that there was not a moment of sacrifice. The multiple options for vegetarians, carnivores, foodies and the timid eater are plentiful.      

      We started our meal with the Tea Leaf salad, featured on the Food Network. It has 11 ingredients including imported Burmese fermented tea leaves, a variety of nuts, fried garlic chips (my new favorite ingredient), dried shrimp and lime.   The server comes to your table, highlights all the ingredients, and then mixes it for you.  He really treats each course like a magical act, and I was waiting to see just what would be pulled out of his hat.  The first bite filled my mouth with a refreshing, spicy, nutty flavor.  I loved the addition of green chilies for that extra kick and was able to wash down the spice with a 15 oz pitcher of red wine sangria, with fresh Asian pears and oranges.  While perusing the menu, my eyes scanned between Burmese Samosas, Pea shoots (a popular Chinese vegetable dish) and Garlic Chili Shrimp.  Yet, after spotting the bright colors of the Spicy Chicken with Fresh Basil at a nearby table, I was sold.  The dish was served over a large banana leaf and was sautéed and stir-fried with fragrant lemon grass, crunchy sweet peas, jalapenos, dried red chilies and of course, basil.  Many times I skip ordering chicken while out at a restaurant because it ends up tasting like a flavorless rubber band.  Not this dish. The chicken was moist, with a slight breading, and each bite popped with a burst of flavor and the unguent smells tickled and enticed my nose, beckoning me to eat the entire dish. 

Our other main dish was Nan Gyi Dok, a Burmese rice noodle dish that is served with hard-boiled eggs, yellow peas, and fried onions, all in a bed of mild coconut curry sauce.  For curry lovers, it has a smooth, but not overpowering coconut flavor that pairs nicely with the side of coconut rice.  I love pretty much any kind of noodle dish; yet, I must say I think the noodles were slightly overcooked.  Does this mean I’m going to discount Burma Superstar? No. I’ve had the Garlic Noodles with duck in a past visit and LOVED them.  If you are a noodle fan, I recommend skipping the curry noodles and opting for the Garlic Noodle option, which is a flour-based noodle dish that you can order with bbq pork, tofu or duck, and is served with the genius addition of fried garlic, broccoli and scallions.  Just keep in mind that there is a bit more of a kick to this dish – as noted with the chili icon for all spicier plates on the menu. 

            After devouring our three courses, our bellies were full, and hearts felt content.  We opted to skip dessert (I may be generalizing but I’ve often found that Asian restaurants do not have the best selection of outstanding desserts). The bill was reasonable, about $30 each all in for our food and the pitcher of refreshing sangria. 

Final Take: Pao Wow?

So what is the final verdict?  Burma SuperStar will appeal to dedicated foodies and your regular Joe who enjoys a tasty bite out.  It can be counted on to provide a meal that will excite your tongue, and also fire your senses with diverse spices and unique flavor combinations.  The ambiance is casual, focused on the food, not the frills. Expect to wait 30 to 45 minutes on any given day at high traffic times. But here’s a tip: If you call, you can put your name on the list and then arrive a little before your seating time. While you’re waiting you can grab a coffee across the street or a drink down the block at the Rockit Room.  Believe me. It’s worth the wait. Your stomach will thank you. I say Pao Wow on this one.

http://www.burmasuperstar.com/

Bienvenidos (Welcome)

            To the typical Spanish speaker, Nopalito translates to “little cactus.”  A local San Franciscan will probably also catch the reference to the area known as North of Panhandle, or NoPa for short.  The streets Divisadero, Fell, Turk and Stanyan form the borders of NoPa, but what really defines this area is the bevy of exceptional restaurants, the latest being Nopalito.  This highly acclaimed Mexican kitchen, sister to the famous Nopa restaurant, has already become a Pao Favorite.  I’ve been three times in the past two months and have no plans of stopping my frequent returns to la cocina.

            As you may remember, the first Pao Chow entry was “Mexicanitos Part 1 – Regalito” – focused on the traditional cookery of chef, Thomas Pena and the Regalito Rotisceria in the Mission district.  Nopalito, run by head chefs Gonzalo Guzman and Jose Ramos, completes this two part series on Mexican eateries, and does so with a bang, leaving you yearning for more with each bite of homemade masa and tomatillo sauce.

Cocina Sostenible (Sustainable Kitchen)

Nopalito is not your every day Mexican restaurant or taqueria. You will not find canned refried beans, store-bought Mission tortillas, or chemically-altered produce in this new city hot spot.  Nopalito is different; distinguishing itself from other Mexican restaurants with its philosophy and commitment to using the best ingredients available.  It prides itself in purchasing from a select group of local purveyors known for providing sustainable, organic, seasonal ingredients.  Some of these suppliers were inherited from NoPa, others stopped by to present their offerings.  Nopalito staff regularly hit up the Thursday and Saturday markets to ensure they have the freshest produce and meats in-house.  Larger purveyors like Catalan, provide weekly deliveries.  While dining at Nopalito, you will enjoy pasture-raised, grass-fed meats, vegetable and fruit products from environmentally-responsible farms, dairy products from well-known establishments like Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes, and even beer from local brew houses like Magnolia Pub & Brewery.  Customers can rest easily, knowing that each savory dish reflects the restaurant’s commitment to leveraging relationships with the best partners to provide mouth-watering bites throughout the entire meal.  As a result, the flavors dance right off your plate into your mouth, providing a robust experience different than the many forgettable restaurants focused on trimming the fat, rather than enhancing the natural flavors of food.

La Historia y la Inspiracion (History and Inspiration)

Before we dive into the menu and what options you can enjoy on any given day (believe me, there is an abundance), let’s explore Nopalito’s inspiration and how it came to fruition.  It helps to know the heritage associated with this restaurant.  Head chefs Gonzalo Guzman and Jose Ramos are veterans to the cooking industry.  Both men came over from NoPa, a favorite to many San Franciscans, including yours truly (try the Pisco Sour next time you are there – es muy autentica!).  While at NoPa, Jose and Gonzalo would cook traditional Mexican cuisine for the staff meals, which were always met with rave reviews from the hungry servers, bartenders and any other lucky soul who was able to partake.  Laurence, one of the owners of NoPa and Nopalito, threw the idea out one day, why not create a sister restaurant focused on this traditional cuisine? And as the cliché goes, the rest was history.  Jose Ramos was tasked to develop the menu. He spent a few months tasting and testing out traditional recipes, molding around the idea of a flexible menu, one that adapted to the change of seasons and availability of sustainable, quality ingredients.  The menu pulls on influences from all over Mexico – Michoacán, Veracruz, Puebla, Toluca, the Yucatan Peninsula – resulting in bold, well-thought out flavors that resonate with diners who have adopted Latin cuisine into their homes, hearts and especially stomachs.  One ingredient you will not find in ample supply on the Nopalito menu is seafood. This is related to the philosophy of using local providers, balanced against the ability to receive the freshest sustainable products.  Ironically, you will also notice the absence of nopales, nopalitos, or in English terms, “cactus.”  It all goes back to what is seasonal and what is fresh – and cactus is not an ingredient readily available year-round.

Whenever I try a new restaurant – one that really knocks my socks off – I like to know the story “behind the guy”, or in this case, behind the men.  Jose Ramos and Gonzalo Guzman work as a team.  Jose is a jovial character who, even in the first 5 minutes of meeting him, you catch that he not only works extremely hard, he also is committed to putting out quality products.  Jose is the opening chef, arriving each morning at 7:30AM to prep the restaurant and get it ready for the lunch time rush. I showed up Saturday morning around 10AM to meet with the chefs and there was already a constant hum of knives chopping, sauces simmering in large stew pots, and homemade masa being pounded into tortillas.  I sat for a few minutes, just watching this stream of activity, lapping up every bit of it.  Each person in the restaurant had a station, they all knew their task, and they moved fluidly through the kitchen like a well-oiled machine.  Though working independently, you could see that this group worked cohesively as a well-led team.  The interviews had not even begun and I was already impressed.

Gonzalo arrived just after 10AM and is the restaurant’s closing chef.  I was shocked and appreciative that although there were probably 15 different tasks he could have helped coordinate that morning, Gonzalo generously sat down with me for 45 minutes to walk me through his history as a chef and then everything Nopalito.   Gonzalo grew up in Veracruz until he was 14 and then moved to the town of Puebla. When he was 16 or 17 he came to the US, starting out as a dishwasher. His hard work and dedication paid off and over the next decade he moved up the restaurant chain, working as a bus boy, line cook, sous chef and now head chef.  He has worked at some of the best restaurants in the Bay area; Chez Nous, Boulevard, Jardinière, Kokkari, and of course NoPa to name a few.  When you meet Gonzalo, he seems quiet at first, but his level of experience and ability to lead come through within minutes. When I asked him what are the most important qualities he looks for in his team?  “Attitude” and a passion or “desire to learn” were the first qualities mentioned.  It’s clear that Gonzalo is the type of chef who will give you a chance, but you better leave your attitude at the door and expect to work; and work hard. 

La Comida (Food)

Some friends recently had Nopalito cater their wedding and the carnitas were the hit of the meal.  I am Chinese, especially in the way I eat, and as pork is the backbone of most Chinese dishes, I obviously have had a long-term love affair with pork products.  I do not have late-night cravings for chocolate, cookies or ice cream, like most 29 year old women might.   Savory is my playground and I crave pork – bacon, sausage, pork tacos, pulled pork, pork fat, anything pig-related.  I once took down 9 pork chops (note – this was the time in high school when I grew 10 inches in two years – true story), so you can imagine the level of excitement that invades my body with the promise of a fantastic plate of carnitas. Hence, why I had to get to the bottom of what made these carnitas so different than the masses. 

Gonzalo explained that it is all about how Nopalito cooks the pork.  It is about knowing the “right time to add the next ingredient.”  Cooking carnitas at Nopalito is a labor of love.  The first step is to heat up enough lard that will eventually be used to cover the pork.  While you are heating the lard, you must season the pork with salt and let it marinate for 30 minutes.  Next you add the meat to the lard (ensure it is completely covered).  Add in vegetables, bay leaves and cinnamon.  Now you cook the pork in the lard for an hour until the lard has become translucent.  Once the lard is clear, add milk and beer.  Wait for the meat to brown, letting the liquid evaporate.  Most of this is done in the morning as it is a lengthy process.  The result?  Quite possibly the best plate of carnitas I’ve ever had. The pork has a complexity of flavor, echoing each of the key ingredients of cinnamon, beer and bay leaves.  When it comes out to you, it is served in one of those typical Mexican style clay dishes built for hot temperatures. The pork is wrapped up in parchment paper and a small pool of smoky hot lard oil sits at the bottom (do not be afraid of this – it is what makes any serving of carnitas go from good to spectacular).  The meat is tender and moist, yet somehow the skin manages to still have that crispy quality to it.  A blend of crunchy pickled cabbage and carrots is served on the side, along with freshly grilled jalapenos and tomatillo salsa.  The portion is ample for two people, given the richness and depth of the carnitas, especially after sharing one or two “antojitos” to begin.

Speaking of “antojitos” or appetizers, (I realize we are going a bit in reverse of typical order), Nopalito has no shortage of starters that will enliven your appetite.   In my multiple visits, I have tried seven of the eleven current selections on the dinner menu.   Nopalito’s appetizers are similar in portion size to a Spanish tapa – ideal to be shared between 2-3 people.  I recommend starting with the Totopos con Chile.  Totopos are thick tortilla chips covered in a tangy chile de arbol sauce and then quickly thrown into a hot pan, with a final addition of fresh housemade cotija cheese. It is served with cream and has an essence of lime with each flavorful bite.  I’ve also tried the Gordita de Picadillo, which has ground grass fed beef and carrots served between two crispy tortillas with refried beans and queso fresco.  This was tasty, but I honestly recommend one of the next two appetizers more.  The Tostada de Tinga is probably one of my favorites – it almost looks like a dark brown deep fried taco, that has pinquito beans, shredded chicken, and is seasoned with chipotle and a popular Mexican herb known as espazote.  It comes as a single tostada which you can easily split between two people, but if you have more than two, I’d recommend several orders – this will be a popular treat.  Another gem on the menu is the Panucho de Pollo al Pibil.  I first discovered panuchos at Tommy’s Mexican restaurant on Geary. They only serve Panuchos on Mondays and after I tasted this amazing concoction that resembled a sope stuff with black bean paste, then covered with chicken, I knew it would become a regular Pao favorite.  Nopalito’s panucho does not disappoint. It is served with shredded chicken, pickled red onion that provides just the right amount of acidity, cabbage and a spicy salsa habanera, guaranteed to wake up your mouth.  In case you did not know this, I love anything and everything spicy. Spicy to the point of killing the tastebuds on my tongue, to tearing up over a good hot pepper, to drinking 7 servings of salsa on a dare.  Nopalito’s habanera salsa and tomatillo salsa do not disappoint.

Now that we discussed a number of the antojitos de la tierra, let’s move on to the seafood apps.  My favorite was definitely the Ceviche Verde de Pescado y Calamari.  With Peruvian food apparently one of the top cuisines in 2009, I feel like it is starting to show up everywhere.  Nopalito’s ceviche set itself apart from the masses.  Rock cod and calamari are cured in a tangy and spicy tomatillo salsa, with chopped up avocado and fresh cilantro. It is nearly completely green in color and the flavors of cilantro and lime explode in your mouth. The fish and calamari are well cured, and the texture is perfect, not overly rubbery.  I also tried the Taco de Pescado al Pastor, which consists of seared swordfish in a handmade masa tortilla, garnished with an orange slice, chile ancho and a tomatillo salsa. This is good but I recommend choosing the ceviche over it if you have a seafood fix.

Another main dish I enjoyed to my heart’s content was the the Birria de Chivo. Birria is a traditional Mexican goat stew, often times enjoyed on a Sunday after a long night out (or maybe that is just me and my friends).  There are not too many things better than a bowl of thick, hearty goat stew served up with fresh tortillas. Nopalito serves up a tasty portion of birria with hints of chocolate and roasted tomatoes in each sauce-filled bite.  If there is any extra sauce I recommend not letting it go to waste and lapping up the remnants with your tortillas.  For any of you diners who do not eat red meat, never fear, there are plenty of options. You can try the Caldo Tlalpeno, which although I did not try, I saw go by in a large bowl and it looked quite tempting.  It is a chicken consommé with fresh turnips, avocado, cauliflower and garbanzos with herbs and is a lighter meal option.  There is also the seasonal kabocha and butternut squash tamale served with homemade masa, pecans and current. 

La Bebida (Drink)

With such an emphasis on producing quality, sustainable food, how does Nopalito fair in the drink arena?   There are a variety of beer and wine options from local breweries or vineyards.  In addition, the restaurant serves up refreshing white wine sangria mixed with frozen grapes. It comes in a smaller pitcher, but word to the wise, if you share this with two people be ready to call a cab – it’s a strong one!  During my last dining experience at Nopalito, one of the chefs was busy working on a new drink creation – a Fuyu Persimmon-infused sangria. I’m definitely going back to try it – always excited to see chefs testing out new tricks.  The non-alcoholic beverages are actually the most impressive though if you ask me.  There are house-made beverages like Grapefruit-Piloncillo and Hibiscus-Valencia Orange – both of which are refreshing, not overly sweet, and remind me of the variety of aguas frescas you can order at a Mexican spot.  There is also something similar to chocolate milk, but it is served with chili and is almost more like a Mexican style spicy milkshake.

El Ambiente (Ambiance)

            So what is the scene at Nopalito? Who is it good for? Really, anyone. It’s a very casual atmosphere that is also family-friendly. The restaurant is well-lit and has long wooden tables with either benches or avocado-colored chairs.  There is an outdoor patio area that is great for the rare warm day in SF, but also can accommodate cooler temperatures with its protective plastic tent covering.  The last question: price?  Nopalito may be a sit-down Mexican restaurant but you won’t expect to empty your wallet enjoying a meal here. The menu is reasonable, and honestly they could probably charge customers more. You can easily come here, order multiple courses that will satisfy two healthy appetites and escape for $25 each, especially if you do not order drinks.  

Final Take: Pao Wow?

It does not take the latest edition of Esquire, touting Nopalito as one of the best new restaurants of 2009, to convince me this place is worth a second look…Or a third look…Or heck, even a monthly visit.  It is the attention to providing not just a well-executed meal, but also a meal that is environmentally responsible through its focus on sustainable products that makes me say with enthusiasm, “Pao Wow!”  The only thing standing between you, the best carnitas you’ll ever have, a collection of antojitos that will make you exclaim, “Mas, por favor,” and a paleta (Mexican style popsicle) that will cool your palate after a meal that fires your taste buds, is a quick trip over to Nopa, or in this case, Nopalito.

 http://www.nopalitosf.com/

I eat out a lot. And when you eat out as much as I do, you start to see a lot of the same dishes pop up restaurant to restaurant, menu to menu. It’s almost like the chef’s creativity chip took a vacation that day and he decided, “Eh, people like this. It’s an easy win. A low-hanging fruit in the restaurant business.” Call me a food snob, but I expect more from you chefs. If we were talking about the music industry, I might even call you a sell out! So which are the Top 5 Most Overrated or Overdone Dishes? Here’s my best take. Feel free to agree, disagree, suggest your own, or tell me where I “have to go” to try a rendition that will change my mind:

1) Ahi Tuna Tartare – coming in with the blue ribbon, this dish is probably on 7 out of 10 restaurant menus in some form or fashion in SF. Don’t get me wrong. I actually love tuna. I love tuna tacos, tuna sashimi, heck, I even enjoy ahi tuna tartare. But that does not mean I want to see it on every single restaurant menu. With so many other fish in the sea, why not branch out a bit? Test your customers? Intrigue them. Or at least intrigue me. This is San Francisco after all. Food mecca. Your customers can take it.

2) Flourless Chocolate Cake – I can already hear a number of girls groaning as they read this. Yes, girls, we have a passion for chocolate. I ate chocolate at 10AM today following my coffee! But whenever I go out to eat and I see flourless chocolate cake on the menu (most likely with a raspberry coulis and vanilla bean creme sauce) I think to myself, “Really?! Are we customers that predicatable?” Chocolate can be served in so many other ways. Let’s take it up a notch!

3) Butternut Squash ravioli – Okay, I may be a bit biased here. I prefer savory to sweet, I don’t like mixing the two when I eat for the most part. I have to ask, what ever happened to good old-fashioned sausage stuffed ravioli? Or if you don’t eat red meat, lobster/shrimp stuffed ravioli? For you vegetarians? I have seen much more creative options – nettle ravioli for instance. I think most ingredients, when pureed and placed inside a pocket of dough, will taste pretty darn good. I understand that maybe the chef was trying to be “different” with butternut squash. Heads up though – I think the novelty period has ended. Next ingredient please!

4) Iceberg Wedge – What is a typical iceberge wedge? Usually a quarter section of iceberg lettuce, bacon bits, tomatoes and some sort of blue-cheese dressing. I see this dish EVERYWHERE. I think to myself – okay diners, you are ordering a salad. Are you trying to be healthy? Watch your weight? Get your vegetables? It’s ICEBERG LETTUCS! You might as well get a glass of water and call it a meal, because that’s about equivalent to the number of nutrients you’ll be getting. With so many other wonderful greens – arugla, endive, radicchio, red spinach, just to name a few, why settle for something so…every day?

5) Miso-glazed fish – I am a fan of miso. In miso soup, and even yes, to marinate or cook a fish with. But when did miso become to fish what wasabi and soy sauce are to sushi? Like I said, I know it tastes good, but let’s think of a new way to get creative with our Asian fusion.

About 2 months ago I must have received 6 different requests from friends to start a blog. A blog about being young in the city of San Francisco and all it affords you.  A resource that covers the various festivals, the innumerable bars, pubs and other hot spots to go out. Somewhere they can turn to find out about the latest hike, the best urban running trail, the special events that happen in surrounding Mt. Tam and Marin areas.  And most importantly, a place where I can log all the restaurant and food recommendations I provide over email.  I resisted, touting, “I don’t have time for a blog. I have a job.”  Now here I am, 2 months later, eating my own words (pun intended) and finally kicking off SF Tao of Pao with my first Pao Chow entry. And what better way than to kick off the blog than with a tribute to one of my favorite cuisines in the city – Mexican food. 

Allow me to be clear: this will not be a full cover story on the best taquerias that flank 24^th Street in the Mission, tickling your nose with promises of lard-filled sopes, tortas cubanos or the ubiquitous San Francisco style burrito.  Fear not my friends; I am dedicating a future soon-to-be posted entry on just that. Keep your eyes peeled and your browsers ready.  Nope. This entry will focus on another sect of Mexican food – the authentic sit-down cuisine that is inspired by “la cocina de mi mama o mi abuelita” (learn Spanish my readers).  I’m not sure if you’ve ever been to mainland Mexico but the cuisine is very different depending on what region you visit. I spent time in “El D.F” – El Districto Federal – also known as Mexico City – which as the country’s capital has the widest range of cuisine. You’ll find Pueblan mole, real Mexican style tacos, and an abundance of spicy chilies.  It was very different from the Oaxacan meal I experienced while in Monterrey – which included queso flameado (I love cheese – especially melted cheese), served with a side of crispy fried crickets (don’t judge they were damn good), and one of the strangest things I’ve eaten, sweet white ant eggs, which are actually fairly large in size.

In a tribute to a growing number of sit down restaurants focused on traditional Mexican cuisine, I am calling my entry “Mexicanitos” and will be dividing the story into two parts: the first a deep dive on Regalito, a Mexican rotisceria in the heart of the Mission at 18^th and Valencia.  The second (to be released later this week) will be Nopalito, yes, associated with the hugely popular Nopa.  So let’s get down to it, vamonos chicos!

            Regalito was started by Thomas Pena, graduate from the California Culinary Academy, who was inspired to start the restaurant after a multi-month trip to Mexico.  With Regalito (which means “little gift” in Spanish), Pena hopes to offer his patrons a sense of community, echoed by the restaurant’s clear panel of glass, the only separation between the customer and the chefs actively working on the menu specialties.  Pena discusses how the idea for Regalito evolved after a multi-month trip to Mexico, where he witnessed a few women cooking at a simple Mexico City market stall for a number of hungry diners.

I had always noticed Regalito, with its brightly lit sign and avocado skinned colored walls, whenever on a walk to nearby Dolores Park.  I wondered, how good can sit down Mexican food in the Mission really be?  The first time I went there was with my Hawaiian friends Debbie and Wilson who, like any real Hawaiians, take their food seriously. We’d tried to hit up the little-known Burmese shack YAMO but with a line out the door and our stomachs bristling with hunger, that idea was sacked quickly (we’re going back).  I spotted the familiar Regalito and we decided to check out the menu. It looked impressive, homemade sopes, a carnitas plate, rotisserie chicken, and nopales.  Then I saw it.  Elote – quite possibly one of my favorite things to eat when it comes to Latin cuisine.  The first time I had elote was at a NY city hot spot, Café Habana.  I was so inspired by the combination of unique but complementary flavors, I had to go home and make it.   Elote is grilled corn on the cob that is then wrapped in cotija, homemade mayonnaise and seasoned with chili powder, lime and cilantro.  If you like bold, big tastes that pack a punch, you will love elote and Regalito really knows how to execute this dish.

Regalito has a fairly substantial menu considering it is not a huge restaurant.  I’ve been there twice and both times, ordered a few different items and ate family style (pretty much a requisite when you dine with me – hey, I’m Asian).  SF Tao of Pao was just a casual idea the first time I went to Regalito, but after tasting the explosion of flavor that characterized the most recommended dish in the restaurant, Carne con Chile Colorado, that idea started turning into something with more substance.   The dish has a tangy chile de arbol sauce that bursts with spice the moment it hits your tongue.  Contrary to my concerns, it was not overly heavy. The sauce, comprised of roasted tomatoes, garlic and caramelized onions enhanced each bite of tender beef.  I did not waste a single bite of that sauce, lapping it up with the warm tortillas stored in a basket to my right.   

What about drinks?  Sitting at the bar by the kitchen area, I watched as our server and manager (Erik) prepared one of the best white wine sangrias I’ve ever tasted.  I take sangria pretty seriously.  I’ve traveled to Spain three different times, the first of which involved a beach party in Barcelona with a crew of Madrilenos.  They made the largest vat of sangria I’d ever seen, which involved mixing soda pop, vodka, wine, fresh fruit, and then letting it sit for a good few hours.  Living in Chile, which boasts a plethora of well-respected vineyards, sangria is also a popular meal-time companion, and Chileans add novel fruits like cherimoya – a white-fleshed fruit with a citrus quality.  One of the biggest mistakes I see when I drink sangria at a restaurant is that the flavor is not allowed to sit and cultivate, a process which helps meld the flavors of the alcohol with the natural juices and sweeteners of the added fruit.  Throwing wine, lemon and an orange slice does not make sangria. You’ve got to add some love and care to really nail this Spanish cocktail.  Regalito does just that. Erik explained the secret behind Regalito’s Chablis sangria.  The key ingredients are fresh oranges, grapes, apple cider, sprite, soju, and then the Chablis.  Erik mixes these ingredients together in a large vat, then refrigerates the mixture and lets them ferment for 48 hours.  The flavors all fuse together, providing a full, smooth experience that has a sweet ending on the tip of your tongue. It is not bitter or flat (like sangrias I’ve tasted without any real development of flavor), nor is it overly sweet.  It is a balanced, delightful trip for your tongue and senses, and it refreshes your palate, preparing it for the oncoming meal.

What about the scene at Regalito?  It is bright, with light green walls and yellow walls with tasteful modern furniture. Subtle music plays in the background, not too loudly though so you can actually have a decent conversation with your party.  Votive candles line the bar/counter, as do bowls of fresh limes and ripe avocados. Regalito does not mess around when it comes to kitchen equipment. They have a full rotisserie.  It honestly would appeal to a variety of different people.  I’d recommend going there if you are looking for a well-executed yet casual meal, in a more intimate setting, that is good for really catching up.  It’d also be a good idea for a more low-key date or group dinner with close friends. The décor is clean and bright, with colorful tidbits adorning the walls with a tasteful appreciation for the Mexican culture. 

In a recent visit to Regalito I started out with the Ensalada de Nopalitos – grilled nopales salad.  It is served with tomatoes, onions, garlic, queso fresco and avocado, accompanied with warm homemade tortillas and a side of roasted habanero salsa (watch out – unlike many more gringo establishments this salsa has a good kick to it).  I must say, I love nopales in pretty much any form or fashion but I think that with this dish, you taste a bit too much of the grill.  The smoky flavor tended to overpower the rest of the salad.  Not as good as the guacamole with homemade chips, or other appetizers I’ve tried.  I might recommend skipping this.  The next app was much better and a favorite of my friend, Jenn.  We ordered the papas con chorizo.  Chorizo is an oily, fattening type of Mexican sausage (I recommend pulling it out of the casing, not being intimidated by the dripping deep red oil and adding it to eggs in the morning – makes great hangover food).  The papas con chorizo includes chopped red potatoes, herbs, HOUSEMADE chorizo, crème and cotija cheese.  It is a hearty appetizer that will appeal to any meat and potatoes lover. 

Erik described the night’s special of roasted lamb prepared with achiote (a spice common the Yucatean Peninsula of Mexico and often served with red onions and fish).  The lamb was marinated in lime and garlic, then served medium rare with rice and beans. We considered getting the lamb dish but my craving that night was for a plate of carnitas, a slowly cooked pork dish with meat so tender you can shred pieces of it off the main body.  It was not at all overcooked, and the outer crispy layer had a glistening layer of fat, something I look for on any good plate of carnitas. As you will learn about me as these entries go on, pork fat or really any piece of fatty meat is one of my favorite allowances. I would not even call it a guilty pleasure, because I really do not feel a single ounce of guilt. I love fat. All types of fat. Pork fat. Pork belly. The grisly fat on a large chunk of steak. Beef tendon. “Give me your weak, your tired, your hungry?” For me it’s “give me that knobby gristle on the top of chicken drumsticks, the gelatinous part of a fatty piece of pork. Cut it off your meat you dieting girls and guys from Los Angeles and throw it right onto my plate. I’m being serious.  But let’s get back to Regalito carnitas. The rest of the plate, besides the meat was honestly fairly healthy. It came with ripe slices of avocado, a salsa that was flavorful, yet not too overpowering to take away from the taste of carnitas and then a side of pinto beans. 

Believe it or not, I was full after sharing this simple three course meal. Maybe it was also that pitcher of sangria.  I’m honestly not sure, yet through this surprising feeling of satisfaction, I did notice a plate of homemade churros and hot chocolate pass by.  Before I could contemplate whether fried Mexican donuts were a good late night idea, Erik surprised us with a complimentary serving of caramel flan.  You need to know that I am not a big custard fan.  I don’t even like Crème Burlee (gasp!).  But, this flan was spectacular.  It was not only rich, with hints of caramel gracing every bite. The texture was what really sold me. It was thicker, not runny at all, almost like a Mexican style Panna Cotta. I had to find out how Erik made it and he was kind enough to describe his process.  He brings half and half to a boil. While he is waiting for the half and half to heat up, he beats eggs and egg yolks with vanilla in a separate bowl.  Once the half and half comes to a boil, he quickly removes it from the heat and whisks in the egg mixture.  He then lets the mixture cool and caramelizes sugar.  When all ingredients are ready, he puts the egg/half and half mixture in ramekins, covers them with the caramelized sugar and bakes for 45 minutes at 325 degrees.  Even if you are not a dessert fan, I’d recommend trying the flan the next time you hit up Regalito. 

Final Take: Pao Wow?

As mentioned earlier, Regalito means “little gift” in Spanish.  After my two meals at Regalito, I really do feel like I opened a delicately wrapped present, and was only more impressed than anticipated with depth of flavor, mindfulness to Mexican traditional cooking, attentive service and friendly ambiance.  I may not have recommended the nopales here, but the intention provided to the different sauces, the authenticity of flavors, the execution of accompanying desserts and Chablis sangria make me say, “Pao Wow.”  Or perhaps “que sabroso” is a more appropriate response.

 http://www.regalitosf.com/